The Wine Thread

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Well, this is one thread from the old place that I ain't going to let die!

Yesterday, Dr Dave mentioned that Fetzer's Barrel Select is up to $25. I find that amazing. Just a couple of years back I was able to buy that stuff for around $10. I guess the word's out that it's good stuff. Hmm... I had fogotten about this wine, too. Maybe I'll have to pick some up. 25 bucks though??

Yesteday, my brother called me and asked me to find a wine for him. He was given a bottle and loved it. It was a 1999 Cuvaison Cabernet Sauvignon. I called around and found out it's a bit pricey. The 1998 was $35.99 at Messina's. Sam called around. No 1999. Why? Because the idiot who reps them bought 28 CASES of the 1998! What a marooon. No way I'd buy any 1998s with the excellent 99s out there.

Later,
Kevin

[Dr Dave]

Being in essence a lazy sort, but also full of undeserved self-regard, I begin anew by re-posting my last entry on the old board:

A few short recent notes:

'00 Grand Archer Arrowwood Merlot: ruby, slight orange rim, lacks brightness; probably unfiltered. Not very generous with the fruit; slightly bitter finish. No thanks.

'01 Benziger Fume Blanc: I wish California winemakers would stop treating Sauvignon Blanc as though it were a poor relation of chardonnay--a cheap grape to be tarted up with toasty oak. An inexpensive alternative to a typical California chard, with little of the SB characteristic grassiness or freshness. I guess I don't understand why somebody would make a wine with a particular varietal and then go to such lengths to disguise the varietal's characteristics. An SB for people who don't like SB.

'99 Fetzer Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon: Garnet-to-ruby color, pink rim of a young wine. Typical blackcurrant and dark red berry fruits on the nose, plus oak-derived vanilla. A bit alcoholic (13.5%). My boss at Leary's expressed reservations about selling a premium wine with the Fetzer brand. I thought it easily justified its $25/bottle retail price. You could do a lot worse for twice as much money.

Here's the best one yet!

'97 Chateau Pegasus Naoussa "Appellation of Origin of High Quality." Greece
Appearance: Orange, rim, garnet center, but kind of brownish overall. Throwing a deposit. Prematurely aged?
Nose: Horse saddle. Stinky! It says "ecological" on the label, and maybe they didn't use any sulfites, because there is clearly a bacterial problem here.
Palate: Leather. Old Slavonian Oak. Very tannic. I don't know what grape was involved in the making of this wine, but it has been seriously abused. Sale price is $15. Better you should spend the money on lottery tickets.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Hey, we have to keep this thread going................

[Dr Dave]

Note in Jimmy's photo that the vines run down the hill, not horizontally. This indicates a relatively recent planting, also that soil erosion is not an issue. Note also that there is all this green stuff growing between the vines, indicative of a relatively wet climate. The vines are trained along wires, but I can't see from this image exactly how. With no other information, I'd guess this was West Coast USA. For a wilder guess, I'd say maybe Carneros, although the hillside looks maybe a little too steep.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Dave, here's the caption to the above photo:

"Steeply planted Cabernet Franc vines at Viader Vineyards, looking down onto the reservoir."

The vineyard is located in Dear Park, California on Howell Mountain...............

[Dr Dave]

Well, I got the county right, anyway. Did you by any chance meet Randy Dunn, the original Howell mountain man?

PS: Kevin, don't diss the '98s so quickly! In recent blind tastings conducted by Horizon (a distributor) in Boston, some '98s have kicked butt. It wasn't the greatest year, but it hardly deserves its current reputation as a dog.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Nope, never met Randy Dunn...............

[Mingus]

with my annual marathon session of tax preparations behind me, and the prospects of new clients on the horizon, we decided to treat ourselves to a feast of red meat and cabernet.

perusing the shelves containing only the best supermarket wines this region has to offer, I came close to choosing a 1999 Sequoia Grove (on sale, 23.99). having never experienced the great Sequoia, and seeking some assurances for a great meal, I instead chose an old friend from Clos du Val.

back in the mid '80s, when I first ventured into the world of wine, I was stunned by the 1982 Clos du Val cabernet (merlot/franc) blend.

Last night, we uncorked the 1998 ($27.99). While inoffensive by any stretch, I was somewhat disappointed by the lack of structure this blend had to offer. Mild attack, decent body, small finish. Overall, an ok cab, but nothing to write home about.

Has anyone taken a look at the Sequoia? (The non-sale price was listed at 32.99)

Also, never being one to succumb to the kendall jackson zealotry, I noticed on the shelf that in addition to their standard line and "vinter's reserve", they had what was labeled "Grand Reserve" (34.99). Has anyone ventured down that path?

p.s. thanks for keeping this thread going. I enjoy reading all your posts.

[Dr Dave]

I've never tried the Sequoia, but Roger Orman, a wine guru friend, thinks quite highly of it. Regarding your Clos du Val experience, I can say only that I've had it too, with any number of california Cabs, and I don't know how much of it is change in winemaking styles and how much is my own palate having become more experienced since the last time I tried the wine. Or how much was just my memory heightening a first-time romance, you know? ;-)

Recent California/Oregon/Washington wine notes:

2000 McIlroy Cellars Russian River Valley Aquarius Ranch Chardonnay. Appearance: Pale gold, slight green tint. Nose: Pear, hint of green apple, soft spice. Malolactic fermentation may have been held back or held back partially, hence the apple. Very fresh. Palate: Ripe apple and soft citrus. Very nice! $21.99, 968 cases made.

2000 Terre Rouge Shendandoah Valley Viognier. Appearance: Not starbright; has had some time on the lees. Unfiltered? Pale green-gold color. Nose: Honeysuckle, gardenia, soft spice. Palate: Honey spice around the edge of the tongue, peach, apricot, a bit of bitter almond. Nicely restrained for a viognier, not to perfumey. 14.5% alcohol, but not hot--well-integrated. No price information.

2000 Cristom Reserve Willamette Valley (Salem, Oregon) Pinot Noir. Appearance: Clear-pink rim; translucent garnet center. Nose: Fresh raspberry, slight strawberry, a bit of candied fruit, tea box. Palate: Cherry, blackberry, slight bitter tannin, flash of hot alcohol at the back of the throat. 13.5% alcohol. $38.99

2000 L'Ecole No. 41 Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley. 81% merlot, 16% cabernet sauvignon, 3% cabernet franc. Appearance: Pale pink narrow rim, bright garnet center. Nose: Floral, plum, blackcurrant, bit of green pepper, fleshy. Palate: Dark fruit, leather; long, soft tannic finish. $42.99. Even though the CS is only 16%, I think it dominates the wine. The green pepper note, I'm guessing, is from the cab franc. It's a nice Bordeaux style, but personally I'd rather buy a real Bordeax for the same money.

2000 Tamarack Cellars Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Appearance: Pink-to-pale orange rim; dark garnet center. Nose: Black raspberry, dark red fruit. Palate: Blackberry, medium tannins, bit of oaky vanilla. $28.99. At this price, I want more character.

[hornplayer]

Mingus: re your experience, I can only say that in general, I've found '98 Cabs from Napa disappointing. '98 was the clunker year of the past decade.

Try a 99 or 97 (if you can find it) and then evaluate.

HEY GUYS!!! I'm back from the Foodwriters Symposium to find the NEW (and perhaps) improved Jazz Corner!

Got to get my sea legs now!

I will have a very impressive list of riches I had the privilege of sampling last week at the Symposium. The Napa Valley Vintners were VERY generous. There were so many great wines I didn't get very much of any one... wanting to sample them all. I may not have much time until the weekend, but I promise to post it!!!

[GoodSpeak]

<I wish California winemakers would stop treating Sauvignon Blanc as though it were a poor relation of chardonnay--a cheap grape to be tarted up with toasty oak>

They HAVE, Dave.


You haven't been reading my desperate attempts at correcting this myth.

To wit:

Callaway
Castoro Cellars
Firestone
Jepson
Kenwood
Buena Vista
Groth
Pine Ridge
Temecula
Kendall-Jackson
Churchill-Claibourne
Cottonwood Creek
Arciero

I could go ON...

[Valerie]

Originally posted by Dr Dave
I've never tried the Sequoia, but Roger Orman, a wine guru friend, thinks quite highly of it.

Dave: Is Roger Orman the guy who was a very ahead-of-his-time Calif. wine distributor in the '70s?

[Dr Dave]

Valerie: No! Roger's been a Boston guy since forever. Well, since he got into the business in the early '60s.

Goodie: Never mind. Whenever I need a misunderstanding that would take many paragraphs to disentangle, I can always count on you. If you're trying to tell me that Kendall Jackson Chard is a better product than it used to be, forget it. It was jive then, it's jive now.

[hornplayer]

This thread needs to be brought to the top, and tho my big list of FAB Napa Valley wines is not yet ready for posting, I thought I'd wax a bit poetic about my favorite Cali Chard..... Sonoma Cutrer Russian River Ranches... as I sit her sipping a glass. the saddest part is that it seems more oaky than I remember.

any comments from Cali Chard fans?

[Mingus]

Originally posted by hornplayer

any comments from Cali Chard fans?

No. But the 2000 Rosenblum Viognier is exceptional! ($13)

[GoodSpeak]

Dr. Dave,

I was referring to your comment about all California Savi's being treated like a poorman's Chard.

My response, I think, did reflect that.

[MRS]

Can anyone direct me to where I can find Qupe Whitehawk Vineyard (forget the vintage)?

I had it at Bacar in SF a few months back and even missed an opportunity in St. Louis to go to a tasting hosted by Bob Lindquist. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks!

Michael

[GoodSpeak]

Originally posted by Mingus
No. But the 2000 Rosenblum Viognier is exceptional! ($13)

Castoro Vineyards in Paso Robles, CA vints a fine Viognier...FWIW.

[Dr Dave]

And now for something completely different:

http://www.tcsn.net/rags/bum/

Enjoy!

(Back with more boring wine notes tomorrow)

[GoodSpeak]

LOL

Here's another "recommendation":


A Guide to Australian Table Wines

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A lot of people in this country pooh-pooh Australian table wines. This is a pity, as many fine Australian wines appeal not only to the Australian palette, but also to the cognoscenti of Great Britain.

"Black Stump Bordeaux" is rightly praised as a peppermint flavoured Burgundy, whilst a good "Sydney Syrup" can rank with any of the world's best sugary wines.

"Chateau Bleu", too, has won many prizes; not least for its taste, and its lingering afterburn.

"Old Smokey, 1968" has been compared favourably to a Welsh claret, whilst the Australian wino society thouroughly recommends a 1970 "Coq du Rod Laver", which, believe me, has a kick on it like a mule: 8 bottles of this, and you're really finished -- at the opening of the Sydney Bridge Club, they were fishing them out of the main sewers every half an hour.

Of the sparkling wines, the most famous is "Perth Pink". This is a bottle with a message in, and the message is BEWARE!. This is not a wine for drinking -- this is a wine for laying down and avoiding.

Another good fighting wine is "Melbourne Old-and-Yellow", which is particularly heavy, and should be used only for hand-to-hand combat.

Quite the reverse is true of "Chateau Chunder", which is an Appelachian controle, specially grown for those keen on regurgitation -- a fine wine which really opens up the sluices at both ends.

Real emetic fans will also go for a "Hobart Muddy", and a prize winning "Cuiver Reserve Chateau Bottled Nuit San Wogga Wogga", which has a bouquet like an aborigine's armpit.



[My apologies to Monty Python's Flying Circus]

[Dr Dave]

Oooh, not all Monty Python gags age well. Although the Aussies still have some pretty funny names, like The Dead Arm, Mad Fish, etc. Thing is, whatever you call them, they're all pretty damned good. Let me tell you, when people come into the store asking for an under-ten-dollar cab or chard, I steer 'em straight for the Penfolds and Lindeman's. Good wines at great prices. Actually, here's a question for you, Goodie (all others chime in, too): Is there a California Cab or Chard under ten bucks that you are still enthusiastic about?

[Mingus]

"enthusiastic" may be an overstatement, but when pressed, I'd have to put Clos du Bois and the "infamous" Groth cabs in the same category as your aforementioned "from-under" wines.

p.s. Loved the Rags/Bum link and Python routine. Laughed my ass off!

[Douglas]

Dr. Dave,

Not disputing your claim about the Australians, just an anecdote from a Financial Times wine critic many years ago.

The journalist was travelling with a French winemaker in Australia and stopped at a winery for a tasting. The wine was not good. After being told the wine was made from the vines on the opposite side of the road from the winery, the Frenchman said "It is a pity your wine does not travel."

[Dr Dave]

"Infamous" Groth cabs? Tell me more...

Here in Massachusetts, Clos du Bois has passed through the ten buck ceiling. As has J. Lohr Seven Oaks. Although J. Lohr has the Cypress label now for the under-ten market. Haven't actually tried it yet.

[hornplayer]

Mingus: which "infamous" Groth cabs are UNDER $10??? Inquiring minds DEFINITELY want to know!

[GoodSpeak]

Originally posted by Dr Dave
Actually, here's a question for you, Goodie (all others chime in, too): Is there a California Cab or Chard under ten bucks that you are still enthusiastic about?

That's a tough one...not much out there these days.

I don't drink Chardonnay anymore, so for Cabernet Sauvignons I would probably go with Clos du Bois, Meridian, Santa Rita [Chile] or Lindemans [Shiraz].

[Mingus]

Did I say cab? hahaha I meant savignon blanc! Decent sb, mild frizante (sp?), doesn't try to be too much like a chard...

As for Clos du Bois, we still find it regularly on sale for $8.99 (reg $10.99)

Don't mean to diss Penefold, but I put them in the same sphere.

[GoodSpeak]

Clos du Bois is a fine Savi...they vint several [some do lean toward that dreaded Chard, uh, well...crap] Others I have already mentioned on an earlier post; Callaway, Castoro and Jepson being the most notably typical Sauvi's/Fume Blancs.


Give me a grassy nose with a dry, drier, driest finish OR...give me a Cabernet Franc.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

My daughter is always sending me corny e-mails. She knows her dad is a wine drinker so her most recent e-mail gave me a chuckle.

Philosophy of Wine

A philosophy professor stood before his class and had some items in front of him. When the class began, wordlessly he picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with rocks, about 2" in diameter. He then asked the students if the jar was full.

They agreed that it was.

So the professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured them into the jar. He shook the jar lightly. The pebbles, of course, rolled into the open areas between the rocks. He then asked the students again if the jar was full.

They agreed it was.

The professor picked up a box of sand and poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else. He then asked once more if the jar was full.

The students responded with an unanimous -- yes.

The professor then produced a bottle of red wine from under the table and proceeded to pour the entire contents into the jar effectively filling the empty space between the sand.

The students laughed.

"Now," said the professor, as the laughter subsided, "I want you to
recognize that this jar represents your life. The rocks are the important things -- your family, your partner, your health, your children -- things that if everything else was lost and only they remained, your life would still be full.

"The pebbles are the other things that matter like your job, your house, your car. The sand is everything else -- the small stuff.

"If you put the sand into the jar first," he continued "there is no room for the pebbles or the rocks. The same goes for your life. If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff, you will never have room for the things that are important to you. Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness. Play with your children. Take time to get medical checkups. Take your partner out dancing. There will always be time to go to work, clean the house, give a dinner party and fix the disposal.

"Take care of the rocks first -- the things that really matter. Set your priorities. The rest is just sand."

One of the students raised her hand and inquired what the wine represented.

The professor smiled. "I'm glad you asked. It just goes to show you that no matter how full your life may seem, there's always room for a good bottle of wine."

My daughter knows me better than I thought...............

[Dr Dave]

Beautiful, Jimmy!

Wine notes from a tasting dinner where there was no light, so no appearance notes:

2001 Lamura Nero d'Avola (Sicily): Black raspberry, oak, grapey, oily. Sweet fruit on the palate, fruit finish. $7.99

2000 Heron Merlot (St. Chinian): Nose--red berry, vanilla oak, chocolate. More fruit on the palate, good acidity, no tannins to speak of. Dry, spicy finish. $8.99

2001 Heron Chardonnay North Coast California: Nose--green apple, hint of citrus. No induced malolactic fermentation. Green apple finish, mild oak. Surprisingly good. $11.99

2000 Etim, Tarragona, Spain. 85% garnacha, 15% cabernet sauvignon. Unfiltered. Spicy, meaty, dark fruit, cooked strawberry. $12.99

2001 Tres Santos, Toro, Spain. 100% Tinta Del Toro. Fresh cherry nose, minty herbal oak. Flatter palate, a big soft. Vigorous tannins, though. $14.99

1999 Partal Crianza, Bullas, Spain. 60% Monastroll; 40% tempranillo, cabernet, merlot, syrah. Dark fruit, A-1 Steak Sauce, caramel/burnt sugar, sweek cooked tomato. Gutsy, long lasting. $24.99

2000 Abel Mendoza Seleccion Personnel, Rioja, 100% Tempranillo. Delicate plum nose, touch of vanilla. Palate: Red fruit, long soft finish. A bit of warming alcohol at the end. $29.99

1999 Allende Crianza Rioja, 100% Tempranillo. Roasted meat, deep plum, hint of vanilla oak, mint. On the palate, big cherry, soft tannins. Sweet, juicy, soft, California-like. Compare to Rosenblum Vintners Cuvee XXIV Zinfandel, with more elegance. $17.99

2000 Calvario Rioja, 90% Tempranillo, 8% Garnacha, 2% Graciano. Black cherry nose with a lot of oak, impression of deep flavor. On the palate, more fruit, hints of chocolate, seamless flavors. Surprisingly light in the mouth. $59.99

And now for something completely different:

2001 Dr. M. Prum Riesling, QBA, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. On the nose, a cornucopia of ripe apples. On the palate, crackling lemon, grapefruit rind. A little sulphur. Jumping with life! $14.99

[Dr Dave]

I tasted some Kosher wines today. I think observant Jews are being taken to the cleaners by Kosher vintners. With the exception of Yarden's Gallilie Cabernet, grown and vinted in Israel, which I would drink whether it was Kosher or not. The rest--yuck.

[bluenoter]

Any Jew who doesn't drink sweet Manischewitz Concord Grape wine
deserves what he or she gets. :p It's traditional, man!

http://www.manischewitzwine.com/images/manilogo.jpg I'll go away again now. But I enjoy reading the wine thread!

[steve(thelil)]

My family believed that any food or wine was sufficiently kosher if you ate and drank while listening to Allan Sherman rcords. If you listened to "Seltzer Boy" while drinking, it was a high holy day.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

http://www.nytimes.com/2003/04/09/dining/09PRIC.html

[GoodSpeak]

Originally posted by bluenoter
Any Jew who doesn't drink sweet Manischewitz Concord Grape wine
deserves what he or she gets. :p It's traditional, man!

http://www.manischewitzwine.com/images/manilogo.jpg I'll go away again now. But I enjoy reading the wine thread!


Traditional?

You mean heartburn and certain regurgitation are Jewish Traditions? Wha-?

No Jewish guy/gal I ever knew told me that. Who knew?




Oy vey.

[Kevin Bresnahan]

I was shopping in the local New Hampshire state liquor store last night and found out that they are "closing out" some wines that I have been looking at... never a good thing, by the way. Anyway, one of them was a Zin from Franus, a wine that my buddy has been telling me about for a while. This one was from their Planchon Vineyard. $12.99! Excellent bottle of Zin. I'll have to go back tomorrow and see if the other 3 bottles are still there. They also had one of Franus' single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons, but even with $10 off, it was around $24, a lot of money for an "unknown"... probably why it didn't sell in the first place.:)

I also saw that this store had gotten in some Amarone from Valpolicella that they were selling for $17 a bottle! I gotta try that one... an Amarone for under $20? Amarone's about my favorite vino from Europe. This bottle sounds too good to be true. It may be too good since the shelf was bare. The guy says they're getting more in. I'll be on the lookout.

Later,
Kevin

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Amarone, mmmmmmmmm.......

http://winerydirect.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/chiantiglass.gif

[GoodSpeak]

HOW does he DO that?

You know, that swirl thang?

[GoodSpeak]

CALLING ALL WINE AFFICIANADOS: Where, exactly, has June, er, Hornplayer been lately on this thread?

[kc bob]

Found this one the other day.... Rhone Rangers???? French Texans or Texan Frogs... what has the world come to?

[Dr Dave]

KC: They're Californians. Their leader is Randall Grahm, the original Rhone Ranger, whose wine, "Le Cigare Volant" (The Flying Cigar) was probably the first Syrah/Grenache based blend out of California. Type Grahm's name into Google, you'll find out more.

[hornplayer]

Surprise! I can post!! I have been back from the IACP Conference in Montreal since Sunday, but whenever I hit the reply button, nothing was happening.

We had minimal wine at this conference, because it seems it was more than a major hassle for any US vintners to get donated wines shipped into Canada. The tariff was terrific. So they all stayed home!

Now, NEXT weekend I'm going out to CA *wine country* to set up my tour for fall. There will be no dearth of wine there.... In fact, I'm picking only really *goody* places!

I still will post that list of Napa wines we drank at the Greenbrier. just haven't had a moment when I could get on!

[GoodSpeak]

Originally posted by hornplayer
Now, NEXT weekend I'm going out to CA *wine country* to set up my tour for fall. There will be no dearth of wine there.... In fact, I'm picking only really *goody* places!

I imagine they will be ;-)

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Since you, the reader, has opened this thread for viewing, I'll assume you're a wine fan. As I type this, I am sipping one of the steals of the decade. As a wine fan, you owe it to yourself to try this vino: 2002 Woop Woop, an Australian Shiraz that is just unbelievable at around $10!! What body! What lucious fruit! The oak is mellow (not like drinking oak trees). Smoooooth. Man, this wine is a winner, I tell you. I'm calling Sam Messina and having him hold me at least one case of this sucker tomorrow morning. He's been telling me I'd like it for quite while but I didn't pick one up until yesterday. Oh how I wish I'd picked one up sooner. This, as well as the 2002 Paringa Shiraz (which I grabbed a case of yesterday at $8 a bottle) are the new "ultimate cheapies". They are win/win for price-taste.

BTW, speaking of the Paringa: I was lucky I got it. It hit #40 (out of 100) on the Wine Spectator's "Best Wine Bargains" for 2002 and it's on the cover of this month's edition. Sam can't keep it in the back room. He's down to his last two cases.

In other wine news, I finally tried a Zin my good buddy Roy has been on me to try for years: Rombauer (sp?) El Dorado vineyard. Yowza! This is one sweet Zin... just the kind I like. Definite "late picked" port-like fruits... all up front in a splash of sweetness. Very smooth with little to no tannins. Probably won't cellar long but with this taste, it shouldn't have to wait. Unfortunately, it's $28 a bottle. Even with Sam's 20% discount for a case, it'd run almost $23. I'll have to think about this one. A case would blow my budget for a couple of months. I think I'm gonna do it though. This is my style for sure.

I also recently tried a bottle of Eos' vineyards Zin. I have a couple of their reserves in my cellar so I thought I'd try their "regular" Zin. Not worth the $20 a bottle. Nope.

Oh yeah! Almost forgot... I got a "special" bottle yesterday that I'm holding until June 12th (me b'day mate). It's a bottle of Turley Zin (Atlas maybe?). I've never even tried the stuff but I've heard so much about it that I couldn't pass up a bottle, even though it rang me $50. Screw it, you only live once and you only have one birthday a year. Live it up.

Later,
Kevin

[GoodSpeak]

Kevin,

You know, we need to sit down, open up a bottle of expensive Cabernet Sauvignon together and have a toast or two.

I am certain I would learn much.

Add Hornplayer and I will come away with the exquisit and rarified knowledge of connoisseurs.


One day, my friend, one day...

[Dr Dave]

Couple great Spanish cheapies, each got a 90 or better from Parker:

Telmo Rodriguez Dehesa Gago, 2001. From northern Castile comes this modern wine, made from tinta de toro (temperanillo) grapes. On the nose, fresh dark fruit, with a little underlying coffee and caramel. The palate is rich with fruit and meaty flavors, with a warm alcohol finish. Leave it open for a day, and chocolate aromas and flavors emerge. A rewarding mouthful for eleven bucks.

Bodegas Castaño Solanera Monastrell, 2001. Monastrell is the Spanish name for mouvedre, a grape used in many Provençal wines. This one also has 35 percent cabernet sauvignon in it. It has a deep red color, strawberry-like aromas on the nose, and delicious red fruit on the palate. $12 and worth every penny.

And one oddity:

Etim "Old Vines" Garnacha (15% cab sauv), price $12. The first sniff--and the second and third and fourth--gave an aroma exactly like grilled hamburger. After a day or two, some fruit began to emerge. Although the main fruit impression was of cranberry. Still don't know what to make of this one.

Kevin: We have a 1995 Renwood Jackrabbit Flat in the store for $45 or something like that. I think of you every time I go by it. Regarding the Paringa: You're dang right, it's a winner and it's really cheap!

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Originally posted by Dr Dave
Kevin: We have a 1995 Renwood Jackrabbit Flat in the store for $45 or something like that. I think of you every time I go by it. Regarding the Paringa: You're dang right, it's a winner and it's really cheap!

Man, Doc, the Jackrabbit Flat is good, but it ain't "$45 good". Maybe that's why a 1995 Zin is still sittin' there.:) Speaking of Renwood, just yesterday when I picked up the Paringa, they were tasting two odd-duck Renwoods: a 2001 Barbera and a 2002 Sangiovese (I may have the vintages screwed up). My wife (who miraculously went with me) liked the Sangiovese, so I grabbed a bottle ($18.99). More than I like to spend, but Joanne said it'll go good with the lasagna she's making this week. The Barbera, while good, was talcum-powder dry. We also grabbed 3 bottles of 2001 German Kabinetts, all under $10 a bottle. Word is the 2001's are on par with the 1985's... I find that hard to believe. Hey, at least they're not comparing it to '83's blockbuster vintage.

Oh yeah, speaking of Cabernets, I finally popped open one of my 1997 Chateau Ste. Michelle "Artist Series" meritages. Very tasty. More Merlot than I usually drink. Very soft but with less body than I would have thought. It's a "Bordeaux blend" of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and (?) Cabernet Franc maybe? Thing is, I have 5 more downstairs and this one tasted to me like it wasn't going to get any better. Time to start drinking these beauties.

Later,
Kevin

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Addressing Goodspeak's Cabernet comment... Tim, I'd love to be able to sit and drink a nice bottle of Cabernet with you but I think you might get more out me bringing one of my super Zins.:)

The "expensive" part of your comment is interesting too. I rarely... no make that very rarely pay more than $30 for any bottle of vino. Usually, I only break that barrier for special occasions, hence my $50 bottle of Turley for my birthday. I could have bought 4 or 5 bottles at that price, which is a friggin' steal, but my budget does not allow for that, especially if I want to support my other "habit", Jazz shows & CDs. In fact, I have been trying my damndest to keep my wine purchases to below $15 per bottle; that's the fun part of the "wine challenge". I am firmly ensconced in the middle-class, at least in my neck of the woods. So, even though I probably make more than a school teacher... well, make that a Californian school teacher, I know I make more than a New Hampshire school teacher. My wife works at the school as a tutor for autistic children.:) I ain't in the major leagues when it comes to high-priced vino. Which doesn't mean I don't want to be there!

Later,
Kevin

[John L]

The world wine market has become very strange. On the one hand, the variety of excellent and distinctive wine in the 8-15 dollar category is fantastic. It has never been better. It has never been easier to find a $10 bottle of wine that is highly enjoyable.

On the other hand, the prices for special occasion premium wines have roughly tripled in recent years. I can't afford to buy what I used to.

You would think the current fierce international competition, along with the option for the wine drinker to buy at the low end, would push prices down on the premium wines too.

Anyway, I am currently living on low-end international wines and high-end wines from my imported cellar from France. Unfortunately, the equilibrium cannot last too long.

[Douglas]

John, you had better come back to France soon to stock up.

On Saturday the Courbis brothers came to town to offload their 2000 stock at a discount!! Didn't take much convicing to snaffle a couple of cases of St. Joseph and Cornas (Champelrose and Les Eygats). Lovely wines.

What I'm now looking for now is the 2001 Vacqueras from the cave de vignerons. I got a bottle as a gift and after tasting it yesterday evening, wow, I want more.

[John L]

Oh man, the Courbis 2000s are fantastic!

I dream about the days when I visited Robert Chevillon in Nuits and stocked up on his 1ier crus at $20-25 a pop. I saw a Chevillon Vaucrains in a store yesterday for frickin $80!

I have to content myself here with all of the Italian, Australian, Argentinian, Chilean, Moldavan, Spanish, Californian bargains that never make to France (although somehow they are available in other EU countries. Hmmmm.)

[Dr Dave]

Yeah, Chevillon is a great house. I am particularly fond of the 2000 Les Roncieres, which my employer offers at $50.

It's true, there is a widening gap between the haves and have nots in the wine business. The top tier stuff goes for astronomical prices, and everything else is on sale. Expect your local wine retailer to begin offering "super-closeout" prices on all sorts of stuff; there are a lot of wines from the '90s that did not sell out at their frontline prices, most of them from Burgundy and the Piedmont.

Meanwhile, there are any number of premium California wine startups that came on line in the late '90s and are now coming to market with wines priced at $50 and up. Most of them are not going to make it, and there should be some upmarket stuff that very quickly goes into the closeout bin.

[John L]

Thanks for the heads up, Dr. Dave. I will be waiting for those closeout bins of top wines. I also can't imagine the market holding up like this.

I still have about a half case of 1993 Les Roncieres that I am savoring. But I tremble at the thought of laying down the cash to replenish my Chevillon Nuits after its gone.

[hornplayer]

"I finally tried a Zin my good buddy Roy has been on me to try for years: Rombauer (sp?) El Dorado vineyard. Yowza! This is one sweet Zin... just the kind I like."

I like those, too, Kevin. I'm just back from my tour-planning trip in Napa and Sonoma. While my "wine itinerary" is about complete, and is pretty comprehensive, i'm thinking of adding a "Zin Winery" to the mix, especially because I like them so much.

Kevin (and all y'all, ftm) given a choice, would you prefer Ridge, Ravenswood or Rombauer? Just curious.

You are really gonna love that Turley. never tasted one I didn't like (and fortunately never bought one myself!). I don't often spend more than $30 for a bottle either, tho I did spring for a 99 Elevage from chimney rock this weekend. I think I said before somewhere that it's one of the best Bordeaux blends I ever had. Drinks like a fine Pomerol...

Had some fantastic experiences this weekend. more later.

The tour will be Oct 30 - November 6th... come on along!!!

[Dr Dave]

For Zin? Rosenblum! (That's the great joke--they all start with "R")

The following may be considered self-promotion, but it is such a great opportunity, I gotta pass it on:

As you all know, I work at a place called Marty's in Newton, MA. We've been having a super-closeout sale. Here's the story:

About a year ago (I'm hazy on actual dates), United, a big wine/liquor distributor in the Boston area, bought Whitehall, a smaller distributor. In the deal came many, many pallets of "end-of-bin" wines. It was a huge jumble, and nobody, not even the Whitehall people, really knew what was in it. But it was taking up space, and United wanted those pallets out of there. Along comes Marty Siegal, who agrees to buy the whole lot, sight unseen. Naturally, he pays a very, very low price for it. For the last few weeks, and for a few weeks yet to come, the wine crew has been opening the cases, sorting out the bottles, and pricing them. They've made great use of the Internet to find out what the current retail value is (although I have to confess that some of the "retail" prices are just guesses). My colleagues Peter and Mike are putting the original prices, as best they can figure them out, on the bottles, and then putting another markdown price along side. For example, I got a magnum of La Gioia di Riecine 1993, a Super Tuscan from a well-regarded winery made in a so-so vintage, for $20. It's original estimated retail price was $69.99. Best of all, the wine turned out to be excellent--light like a burgundy, with powerful sangiovese/cabernet flavors. At prices like these, if you know what you're doing you can find some incredible stuff at truly incredible prices. Even if you don't know what you're doing, what's the harm in taking a gamble on a 1995 Rully for $12? (It was kinda light in the loafers, as it turned out, but a hell of a lot better than anything else I could have gotten for the same money.)

Anyway, my fellow New Englanders, it's a hell of a thing. E-mail me to learn more. Marty's doesn't have a website (they're still thinking about it).

End of commercial message.

Today's question: What is it with South Americans and glass? A case of Lucca, a premium Argentine, weighs in at 72 lbs.! Worse than champagne bottles!

[GoodSpeak]

Kevin,

ZIN away, my friend...I would be honored.

I could be of service to recommend a few California Zin's [that'll just knock yer socks off!] myself.


Here's to one day.

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Originally posted by hornplayer
I like those, too, Kevin. I'm just back from my tour-planning trip in Napa and Sonoma. While my "wine itinerary" is about complete, and is pretty comprehensive, i'm thinking of adding a "Zin Winery" to the mix, especially because I like them so much.

Kevin (and all y'all, ftm) given a choice, would you prefer Ridge, Ravenswood or Rombauer? Just curious.


HP, I don't know if you caught it, but I'm a member of Ridge's "Advanced Tasting Program". Given the variety I've been getting with these wines, coupled with the high quality of each and every one, I'd have to say that is one winery I'd die to go visit. I mean, if this is what they send out when they only have "limited" production (typically around 50 barrels), I can imagine what they have on reserve at the winery. Dr. Dave's right that Rosenblum is fantastic but I think Ridge would be a better choice for a tour/tasting. But that Rombauer Zin... ooooo.

Speaking of Rosenblum, I opened up a Rosenblum "Richard Sauret Vineyard" Zin this weekend. Man, this is one smooooooth Zin. Toasty oak and just a hint of that Zin "spiciness" that I like. My wife thought it was too sweet (!) showing how far she's come in her wine tastes... just 5 years ago, I bet she would have thought this wine was "too dry"!:)

Goody, many years back, I used to take many, many trips out your way but alas, my new job doesn't call for it much. I'm probably going to find myself over visiting Korea and the Philippines more than California. I'll be sure to let you know if I ever find myself out there. Maybe I can take HP up on her winery tour and you can go as well?

Later,
Kevin

[hornplayer]

I did remember about the Ridge club, and that's partly why I asked. I'm not sure Ridge is in the area we'll be visiting, but I'm going back to my maps tonight and see. Rombauer has been highly recommended on several levels, and is on my "beaten path" as it were, for the itinerary I'm anticipating. But Ridge sounds highly interesting! (not to mention yummy!)

One winery in Sonoma I am including makes the best Pinot Noir I've ever tasted in the states. It's a very small boutique winery and the owner and winemaker is African-American.

I'd love it if some of you cats wanted to come along. I'm also looking for some Jazz in the Valley to include in the program.

I'll have the whole thing together soon.

[Dr Dave]

I tasted 15 white and 15 red 2001 burgundies from Joseph Drouhin tonight. There was a jazz trio from Beaune; the tenor player was exceptional. Do I remember even one wine? Well, the Gevrey Chambertin was pretty good, and so was the Meursault. Like we all didn't know that already...

[BFrank]

Here's something guaranteed to get the Good-ster all hot and bothered.

+++

NY Times
May 14, 2003
Popping Corks: A Sound Bound for Oblivion?
By FRANK J. PRIAL

FOR years the wine industry has talked vaguely about someday replacing the corks on bottles of fine wine with screwcaps. Now somebody is doing something about it. Recently, the Napa Wine Company in Oakville, Calif., converted one of its bottling lines to accommodate screwcap bottles. The Napa Valley Wine Company is not a manufacturer of jug wine. It is where boutique wineries like Pahlmeyer, Fife, La Sirena, Staglin Family and Bryant Family have their grapes transformed into wine.

For years, winemakers have been searching for a replacement for corks. Corks leak, corks break, corks crumble. Corks come out too easily or they don't come out at all. And worst of all, corks can impart moldy odors to the wines they are supposed to preserve.

Of course, the single best alternative has been around for a long time: the humble screwcap, familiar to anyone who ever opened a gallon jug of Hearty Burgundy. Or, for that matter, to anyone who has ever shared a bottle from the library of a great Bordeaux château that uses corks for show and screwtops in the winery.

Unfortunately, what is reasonable to winemakers is often sacrilegious to consumers, particularly those who do not know much about wine. Hearing a wine steward whisper "Excellent choice, sir" as he extracts the cork and hands it to you (to do what?), is a solemn event for the uninitiated.

The cork is sacred, the screwtop profane. The wine is secondary. Which is why the Napa Wine Company's bottling-line investment is newsworthy. Custom-crush facilities like Napa Wine make only luxury wines, which means there have to be enough prestigious Napa Valley winemakers thinking of screwcaps to make the investment worthwhile.

Sheldon Parker, Napa Wine's general manager, said that he had only one screwcap client, Downing Family Vineyards. But he said he had four others, which he declined to identify, "lined up." Downing put screwcaps on 200 cases of Napa zinfandel last year, but did not set any trends.

Randall Grahm, the iconoclastic California winemaker, bottled 80,000 cases of his Bonny Doon Vineyard wines in screwcap bottles last year. And this year, he said, Bonny Doon will use screwcaps on 200,000 cases. "We are jumping in with both feet," he said.

Screwcaps received a great deal of publicity when, in 1997, Gordon Getty, the multimillionaire, announced that he would use screwtops for the $150-a-bottle wines produced at his Plumpjack Winery in the Napa Valley. He has continued to put at least half of his tiny output — some 300 cases annually — into screwcap bottles.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, a spokesman for the wine giant E&J Gallo said the company was "continually exploring new developments" in ways to bottle wine, including "plastic corks and screwcaps." Gallo, which produces an estimated six million cases of wine a year from its four California wineries, said it would wait "for consumers to tell us what they think" before bottling more of its wine under screwcaps.

Other wineries using screwcaps for at least part of their production are, among others, Fetzer, which uses them on wines exported to Europe; Sonoma-Cutrer, on some bottles of top-of-the-line chardonnay; and Murphy-Goode, an Alexander Valley winery, on its entire new line of wines called Tin Roof.

"We did 20,000 cases of sauvignon blanc and 6,000 cases of chardonnay," said David Ready, Murphy-Goode's winemaker, "and we plan to do at least one red wine with screwcaps as well." The wines did well at the winery's shop, Mr. Ready said, and preliminary reports showed them doing well in the market, too.

"They're making really good headway," he said. "It looks like being unique and different is an advantage right now."

In Oregon, the Argyle winery in Dundee has bottled both merlot and cabernet franc with screwcaps and the Willakenzie winery is experimenting with them on some of its pinot gris.

Tesco, a major supermarket chain in the United Kingdom, uses screwtops on its private-label wines and demands them from major suppliers like Georges Duboeuf of the Beaujolais region. In a 10-week period last year, Tesco reported, it sold 1.5 million bottles of wine with screwcaps. Mr. Duboeuf told me recently that he had been shipping Beaujolais with screwcaps to various markets, particularly Switzerland, for six years.

Bodegas Torres, one of Spain's largest wineries, is bottling some of its white wines with Stelvin screwcaps. (Stelvin is the trade name for screwcaps made by Pechiney, a French packaging company.) Miguel Torres, the president, told Wine Spectator, a consumer magazine, that he had shipped 12,000 cases of screwcap-topped Vina Esmeralda, a muscatel and gewürztraminer blend, to British retailers. He said he planned a similar step in the United States next year.

"I'm very happy with the initial results," Mr. Torres said.

The Torres initiative is of particular interest because, after Portugal, Spain is the world's biggest supplier of natural corks.

Screwcaps have become popular in the Clare Valley of Australia and in New Zealand, where Kim Crawford, of Kim Crawford Wines in Marlborough, is an outspoken advocate. His 2001 Marlborough dry riesling was the first premium quality New Zealand wine in recent years to be released in the domestic market with screwcaps.

Richard Poyol, who heads Pechiney's Stelvin branch in California, said that he has only five customers now, but that several very large wineries are experimenting with his company's screwcaps. He said Pechiney supplies winemakers throughout Europe from its plant at Chalon-sur-Saône. Stelvins used in this country are made in Canada, Mr. Poyol said.

American wineries use fewer than 10 million screwcaps a year. Switzerland, whose wineries have used screwcaps for more than a decade, now employs some 70 million of them annually.

"Far too much wine gets spoiled by cork contamination," Mr. Crawford said, citing a 2000 Air New Zealand competition in which the judges declared 32 percent of riesling entries to be "corked," or tainted. The main cause of cork taint is a compound called 2,4,6-trichloro anisole, or TCA, formed by the interaction of moisture, chlorine and mold.

Estimates of how much wine is "corked" vary from as high as 10 percent to less than 1 percent.

As an informal gauge, when the Dining section's tasting panel judges wines, we usually open two dozen bottles and find at least one to be corked. Often consumers drink corked wine unknowingly. They may not like it, but assume that is the way the bottle is supposed to taste. Most restaurants will replace a corked bottle unless it is very old. Some retailers will, too, if the bottle has not been lying in the consumer's cellar or hall closet for years.

When corks dry out or crumble with age, wine oxidizes. Most serious wine collectors have their corks replaced every 10 to 25 years. There is a theory that corks "breathe" and that air seeping through the cork somehow helps the wine to age properly. In fact, good corks do not breathe, and the air between the wine and the cork bottom provides whatever oxygen the wine might need. The same is true of the air under a screwcap.

More than two-thirds of all corks come from Portugal, and the Portuguese cork industry has spent astronomic sums in recent years to fight TCA. The incidence has decreased. Plastic corks, another alternative to genuine cork, are used by winemakers all over the world. They too have leakage problems and can be difficult to extract. And they can produce off-odors.

William Hambrecht, a San Francisco investment banker and wine entrepreneur, recently lost two entire vintages at Belvedere, his Sonoma winery, because of plastic corks that were tainted in manufacturing.

"Apparently, they changed the formula for the plastic," Mr. Hambrecht said. He said he had settled with the manufacturer and reverted to traditional corks.

To entice more consumers the industry must improve the look of screwcaps, most of which do look cheap. They need not; some miniature bottles of Champagne sport a bulbous top swathed in gold foil. They look almost identical to full-size Champagne bottles, but the foil covers ball-top, screw-on plastic caps.

Image-changing is difficult, especially where tradition is involved. New thinking will be required. As the New Zealanders put it in their "Screwcap Wine Seal Initiative," a sort of anti-cork manifesto published in 2001, "the romance of the cork" must give way to "the true romance of great wine, time after time, with no disappointments due to tainted or oxidized wine."

A massive switch to screwcaps is not imminent. "There is a market for them," said Sheldon Parker of the Napa Wine Company, "but they will never replace corks. They are an option."

Mr. Parker has 50 clients who are sticking with corks for the time being, at least. Mr. Ready at Murphy-Goode is far more optimistic about screwcaps. "Recently, I tasted two versions of a zinfandel from Downing Family Vineyards," he said. "The same wine in two bottles, one with a cork, one with a screwcap. Both had been bottled a year." He liked the wine under the screwcap better, finding it "jammier and fruitier," he said.

"I get calls from other wineries every day asking about our Tin Roof line," he said. "There are dozens of people eager to jump in. I'll bet that in 10 years, 80 percent of all good wines will be under screwcaps."

[Dr Dave]

To learn more about the history of the Stelvin closure, click here. (http://www.wineoftheweek.com/screwcaps/history.html)

[Dr Dave]

Our South African rep was in to visit last week, and I came away from his tasting with a few recommendations:

2001 Indaba Chenin Blanc: A slightly flowery nose followed by a smooth palate of ripe pear, ripe apple, and a bit of peach. Good acidity to balance all that fruit. Compares favorably to a good-quality dry Vouvray. We have it priced at 2/$10; it tastes like it might be three times that price.

2001 Indaba Sauvignon Blanc: Less assertive than its New Zealand brethren, but still with a nice, fresh lime/melon nose and a crisp citrusy finish. Also two for ten bucks. If you've ever had "Southern Right" (at $11) you'll enjoy this economy model.

Best for last: 2002 Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon. Beautiful blackcurrant and black cherry nose, sweet dark fruit on the palate, sufficient tannins to achieve a pleasant, dry finish. I was totally knocked out by this one, given that it sells for around $9. Compares very favorably to a lot of $15 California cabs. Parker gave it an 89.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

I'll be in Napa Valley next week (28th & 29th). Can't wait!!...........

http://www.beringer.com/images/vineyards/vineyards_map_nv.jpg

[hornplayer]

Don't know where you are planning to taste, Jimmy, but if you'd like some rec's, feel free to email me. The best places need either an advance appointment or a recommendation to get you in.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

June, you've already e- mailed me a few recs and I thank you for that. I'm taking them under advisement............ http://www.jazzcornertalk.com/speakeasy/images/icons/icon14.gif

[Dr Dave]

The upside to being in the wine business is that you get to taste a lot of wine. The downside is you get to taste a lot of really bad wine.

I offer the following as a public service: You may see on the shelves of your local wine merchant a white wine called "Bada Bing!" It looks like fun, but please--resist the impulse. It's a lot like Luna Di Luna Blue (a chardonnay-pinot grigio blend) only with even less character. For reasons I'll never understand, the Wine Advocate gave this stuff an 85. I give it a 70. No nose, no palate to speak of, a slightly oily mouthfeel. A potential joke gift for Sopranos fans, but pour out the contents and put something decent in it instead. There is a red, too. It's not as good as the white.

[hornplayer]

Originally posted by Dr Dave
I give it a 70. No nose, no palate to speak of, a slightly oily mouthfeel.

You are indeed generous in your rating. I wouldn't even give it a 50. White wine vinegar tastes better than that stuff. and I wouldn't even give it as a joke gift.... which is how I happened to taste it. It's so bad it isn't EVEN funny!

Bada Bing! Indeed!

[Dr Dave]

June: I guess I've been reading the Wine Spectator (affectionately known in our shop as "The Wine Dictator") for too long. Wine has to be pretty awful for them to dip below 75. Anyway, I've had worse. '01 Viña Fundacion De Mendoza Malbec. I'll never forget it: it smelled and tasted like somebody had poured balsamic vinegar and maybe the water from a jar of pickles into a glass of cheap Bordeaux. I can't believe the vintner released it tasting that way; something really awful must have happened to it. The Wine Spectator gave it a 73. My employer at the time of tasting was Brookline Liquor Mart; they were trying to get $9.99 for it. Words fail...

[BFrank]

Not to throw more gas on the fire for the Good-ster, but here's yet another story about screw caps. This time from the SF Chronicle:

Only a matter of time before screw-cap sales explode (http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2003/05/22/WI256617.DTL)

[Dr Dave]

Today's Sunday New York Times has a front-page article on the collapse of the California grape market. The story focuses more on the table-grape market, which has apparently been hardest hit. But it also mentions how competition from Chile, Australia, and South Africa have hurt wine grape growers. The article doesn't say much about the premium wine grapes grown in Northern California. It's too big to reproduce here, so click here (http://www.nytimes.com/2003/05/25/national/25GRAP.html) to read the story. You have to register to read it; registration is free.

I have heard, by the way, that this year Australia is expected to pass Italy in volume/dollars as an exporter of wines to the United States. I know I'm selling a lot more Australian bottles that have prices above the $30 mark, and you simply would not believe the volume we do in low-end wines from Penfolds, Rosemount, Lindeman's, and newcomers like Yellowtail and Banrock Station.

Which reminds me: There's an Aussie label called Torbreck that makes some high-end shirazes that are simply mind-blowing. They have a wine called "The Factor" that sells for $70 that in my opinion has a hell of a lot more going for it than, say, Joseph Phelps Insignia which retails for anywhere between $95 and $125, depending on vintage.

[GoodSpeak]

Originally posted by BFrank
Not to throw more gas on the fire for the Good-ster, but here's yet another story about screw caps. This time from the SF Chronicle:

Only a matter of time before screw-cap sales explode (http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2003/05/22/WI256617.DTL)

I'm gonna have to hurt you, aren't I?


dodger Boy...







sheesh.

[GoodSpeak]

I got yer screw top...

[Dr Dave]

...I got yer screwtop, too, Goodie!

http://www.oregon-wine.com/argylepnrsv.gif

Argyle is putting its $30 a bottle Merlot in a screwtop bottle.

[GoodSpeak]

The EVIL spawn...

[GoodSpeak]

The REAL deal...

[GoodSpeak]

I will, DIE before I support the SCREW.




Give me cork or give me DEATH!!!

[GoodSpeak]

The reason why...

[GoodSpeak]

TRADITION!!!

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Interesting that the cork/screwcap issue popped up this weekend. I went to a Memorial Day party Saturday and the hosts asked me is I could bring the wine. It took me quite a while as I knew the people very well and I wanted to bring something I thought they'd like. I grabbed a bottle of the 2002 Woop Woop Shiraz and a bottle of 2000 Franus Zinfandel.

The Woop Woop, as expected, wowed them. I expected this because they are Shiraz fans and this is a great Shiaz.

The Franus was horribly corked. By far the worst case I've ever had. If I had gotten this in a restaurant, I would have sent it back. I was embarassed... my wife thinks I'm crazy since it's not my fault... but, these people relied on me to supply the vino and this is what I bring?

About the only good thing that happened was that they only asked me to bring 1 bottle and I brought 2. Well, that and they really liked the Woop Woop.

I am very hopeful that the wine industry does something to stop this baloney. Obviously, just "staying the course" ain't gonna cut it. Something has to be done. This problem is getting worse.

Later,
Kevin

[Dr Dave]

By the way, the notion that screwcaps are unsuitable for bottle-ageing wines has been put to rest. The Australian Wine Research Institute has released a scientific paper that basically demonstrates that wines under screwcaps last longer and stay fresher than wines under cork. The study also reported a "rubbery" taste to wines under the screwcap, but this was later determined to be the fault of excess SO2 in the wine, not the fault of the closure. There was one closure made of agglomerated cork, called an Altec, which apparently corked every bottle. To see a report on the study, click here. (http://www.wineanorak.com/closuretrial.htm) The study was originally published in the Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research .

[GoodSpeak]

Originally posted by Kevin Bresnahan
Interesting that the cork/screwcap issue popped up this weekend.

Interesting unintended pun there, Kevin ;-)

And another reason screw tops will never catch on big...they don't POP.

[BFrank]

Originally posted by GoodSpeak
Interesting unintended pun there, Kevin ;-)

And another reason screw tops will never catch on big...they don't POP.

Can you prove they don't pop??

[GoodSpeak]

Originally posted by BFrank
Can you prove they don't pop??

Yes.

Yes I can.

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Originally posted by GoodSpeak
Interesting unintended pun there, Kevin ;-)

And another reason screw tops will never catch on big...they don't POP.

You know what bugs me the most about your attitude, Goodspeak?? You just don't give a shit about the fact that people like me are having serious problems with corked wine. A little compassionate understanding on your part would go a long way but it appears you can't do that.

Anyone who's ever encountered a corked bottle of wine in a situation where the bottle in question was their only bottle would understand people's desire for alternative ways to seal wine bottles. I can't even imagine if I hadn't brought that second bottle with me to that party Saturday... I would have had to jump in the car and drive back home to grab another bottle (in the hopes that it wouldn't be corked too).

As it is, I find it extremely hard to believe that you have never gotten a corked bottle of wine. Do you even know what corked wine smells and/or tastes like?

Originally posted by GoodSpeak
quote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by BFrank
Can you prove they don't pop??
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yes.

Yes I can.

Oh, and how could you prove this?? Are you saying that you have opened several bottles of wine sealed with a screw cap and heard no "pop"? This from someone who's on record as stating he will never buy a screw capped bottle of wine? That bottle of Bonny Doon Cal de Sol that I bought with a screw cap most certainly made a sound when I "cracked" it. However, it was one bottle so I would not feel comfortable saying that screw caps make a "pop" or not. I don't base my opinions on conjecture.

BTW, in the past few years I have opened several hundred bottles of wine sealed with a cork and in my estimation, less than half of them actually "pop". Most just make a small noise not unlike gas passing through a small orafice... you can name that sound yourself.

Later,
Kevin

[Uli]

I was thingkin that goodie referred to the champaign or bubbly wine corks with popping. I had however plastic bubbly "corks" that popped.

[hornplayer]

Goodie, I'm sorry to say that your un-funny, uninformed posts on the cork/screw-top subject come across as unfriendly and make me want to log off this thread without making any comments on any wine subject whatsoever.

Thank you very much.

Now, is there somewhere else that the people here who would like to talk about wine without being told over and over and over and over that screw tops on wine will signal the end of civilization?

[Kevin Bresnahan]

A few weeks back, I was in Messina's in North Andover chatting away with Sam, the jovial wine buyer, when the subject of good Gewurztraminer wines came up. Sam brought me in back and offered me a couple of bottles from his personal stash: 1999 Alsace Willm Gewurztraminer "Reserve Cuvee Emile". $6 each. I bought them and opened one up with a nice ham shoulder, rice pilaf and some green beans. Wow! This wine is incredible at $6... it was heavy bodied but not real oily, with nice semi-sweet fruit tastes. After doing some research, it looks like it can be had for around $15. I'd be willing to pay that too. It was much better than Trimbach's "regular" Gewurztraminer which goes for more than this and nearly as good as Trimbach's reserve which can run you $35.

Later,
Kevin

[John B]

Kevin -

after reading your write up I am looking forward to trying the Woop Woop Shiraz. The only problem is none of the shops around here seem to carry it. Do you know if it is available at Messina's? If so, I will ask my buddy to pick some up, as he lives there.

thanks!

[BFrank]

I saw some "Woop Woop Shiraz" in Whole Foods yesterday for around $10. Is that a decent price for this?

[hornplayer]

yes, that's a good price for it...

My experience with Whole Foods wine section (in Chicago) is that I could pick a bottle there blindfolded. The wine buyer and I must have almost exactly the same taste! great stuff at decent prices. makes the shopping experience one-stop.

Anyone in Chicago who hasn't "done" the North and Sheffield store is missing a shopping treat!

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Originally posted by John B
Kevin -

after reading your write up I am looking forward to trying the Woop Woop Shiraz. The only problem is none of the shops around here seem to carry it. Do you know if it is available at Messina's? If so, I will ask my buddy to pick some up, as he lives there.

thanks!

John, I hope this reply isn't jinxed... I was in the middle of typing a response earlier today and the computer I was working on just totally died!

Anyway, regarding Woop Woop, it seems that the word got out (at least at Messina's) about this wine. I bought the last 15 bottles they had. Sam tried ordering 25 cases to start, only got 10 and can't get any more. However, during my last trip to Northampton, MA a few weeks back, Table & Vine did have it in quantity. I don't know if they still do. From the post a few above this one, it sounds like it's still around Chicago too. BTW, it is well worth $10. Try one and see if you agree. My bet is you'll be back for more.:)

Later,
Kevin

[GoodSpeak]

Kevin and HP,

Lighten UP, willya?

Geez. I was just messin' with that BFrank post/bait.

Look...if you two want to spend even a hundred plus bucks for screw topped wine then have a BLAST. Really. On me, OK?

I prefer the real deal; cork.

No big thing, OK?


Different strokes, guys.


All I ask is you leave me to mine.



They be somes that likes wine, somes that likes beer...and somes that don't likes it at all.


Screw tops, Schmew tops.


Unless you two are somehow deeply vested in this venture, I figure the jury of public opinion is still out on this one...I think we wait and see. OK?





[Such a humorless place, this]


sheesh.

[Dr Dave]

Public opinion may still be out, but scientific opinion isn't. It doesn't look good for the home team, Goodie.

[BFrank]

Hey, Good-man. You think I'm baitin' ya......you think I'm baitin' ya?

Hey! You think I'm baitin' ya?

Would I bait you? Huh? Come over HERE and say that.


Hey!






You think I'm baitin' ya?

[hornplayer]

Originally posted by GoodSpeak
Kevin and HP,

Lighten UP, willya?


All I ask is you leave me to mine.

Unless you two are somehow deeply vested in this venture, I figure the jury of public opinion is still out on this one...I think we wait and see. OK?
.

Goodie, you are missing the whole point. YOU are the only one who wants to debate this question.

No one disagrees (I don't think, anyway) that the jury is still out on this one. Some wineries will choose screw tops, some will not. You don't have to buy any wine you don't want to.

Just please, find something else to comment about on wine for a change, huh?

Haven't you tasted anything you'd like to talk abou??

[John B]

Originally posted by Kevin Bresnahan
Anyway, regarding Woop Woop, it seems that the word got out (at least at Messina's) about this wine. I bought the last 15 bottles they had. Sam tried ordering 25 cases to start, only got 10 and can't get any more.

oh well, let the search continue! thanks for the fyi...

[GoodSpeak]

Originally posted by hornplayer
Goodie, you are missing the whole point. YOU are the only one who wants to debate this question.

No one disagrees (I don't think, anyway) that the jury is still out on this one. Some wineries will choose screw tops, some will not. You don't have to buy any wine you don't want to.

Just please, find something else to comment about on wine for a change, huh?

Haven't you tasted anything you'd like to talk abou??

Once again my previous posts were a tongue-in-cheek response to BFrank.

Don't take it so personally, all right?

Just a joke ;-)

************************************************

As to anything new of late, the DEWN Club just sent me my bi-yearly shippment and, as per usual, a very interesting selection.

I figure to crack open one of the bottles [both reds] this week...and I'll let ya know my take on it.

Always an adventure, Bonny Doon is ;-)

[GoodSpeak]

Originally posted by BFrank
Hey, Good-man. You think I'm baitin' ya......you think I'm baitin' ya?

Hey! You think I'm baitin' ya?

Would I bait you? Huh? Come over HERE and say that.


Hey!






You think I'm baitin' ya?

LOL

You fracture me, BFrank ;-)


BTW, my GIANTS are BACK in first place!

[tee, hee]

[GoodSpeak]

HP and Kevin,

As promised, I broke out a bottle of Bonny Doon's 2001 Nebbiolo/Barbera and I am sipping it even as I type.

Definately different inasmuch as it has a lot of raspberry in the nose with a typically Nebbiolo-like, smokey finish. It's a claret, so not terribly full in the mouth, but a very nice wine for smoked cheese, smoked salmon and BBQ...IMHO. An attractive ruby red, but you'll want to let it open up before serving. The nose is changing still...

I always love those DEWN Club shippments. I mean, it's like a surprise party...you never know what's gonna jump out at you.


TimMc









Oh and BTW...it had a plastic-composite cork enclosure ;-)

[BFrank]

I'll be driving down and then back up Hwy 101 this week. Will probably try to stop at the Paso Robles Bonny Doone shop.

[GoodSpeak]

Hmmm...

There's a good chance I might see you there.

I'm headed to the Central Coast myself this weekend.

Any chance of a link-up?








BTW, the GIANTS are now 2.5 games up ;-)

[BFrank]

Originally posted by GoodSpeak
[B]Hmmm...

There's a good chance I might see you there.

I'm headed to the Central Coast myself this weekend.

Any chance of a link-up?


Probably not. We'll be zooming through there both ways. The pit stop will probably come on Tuesday afternoon sometime.

GIANTS - DODGERS - CUBS

[GoodSpeak]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by BFrank
[B]Probably not. We'll be zooming through there both ways. The pit stop will probably come on Tuesday afternoon sometime./[QUOTE]

No problem.

As luck would have it, I couldn't make it either...long story; don't ask.




GIANTS , dodgers and I could give a hang about the Lovable Losers.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Just got back from California yesterday. I was able to spend two days in Napa Valley. Of course, as you all know, that is not nearly enough time to do this beautiful area justice but it was two incredibly enjoyable days filled with wine, food, and gorgeous views. More on this a little later................

http://www.napavalley.com/graphics/tour/images/nick_elias_110.jpg

[hornplayer]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jimmy Cantiello
[B]Just got back from California yesterday. I was able to spend two days in Napa Valley. Of course, as you all know, that is not nearly enough time to do this beautiful area justice. More on this a little later................

There is no such thing as "enough time" in Napa Valley!

Now give us the details, man!!!

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Well, first off we stayed at a very nice Bed & Breakfast in Napa (the city) called Hennessey House. It's a very well maintained Victorian house furnished with antiques. We had a great night's sleep and awoke to a sumptuous breakfast to start our day. Every afternoon they offer tea and in the evening, just before dinner, there is a spread of complimentary wine and cheese which includes three of the area's wines. Great place. I highly recommend it....

http://www.hennesseyhouse.com/

[GoodSpeak]

I know that place!

Wow ;-)


Tell us...which wineries did you have the occasion to enjoy?

Which wines were best [IYO] and what would you recommend?

[Dr Dave]

Yeah, yeah, you had a nice place to stay. So what! Tell us about WINES awready...

[GoodSpeak]

Red wine Nirvana...ahhhh.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Hey, if you guys think I'm gonna give you a laundry list of all the wines I tasted, and believe me, there were a lot, you're nuts! What I will do is give you some general impressions. After all, I wasn't taking notes so I'm not able to go into detail about any one particular wine.

Unfortunately we were only able to spend time at three of the many wineries in the area. We decided to go to a few of the relatively larger ones as opposed to the smaller/boutique wineries because of our time contraints. We visited Sterling, Beaulieu, and Robert Mondavi. I hope you'll be patient because I can only share my visit with you in dribs and drabs since I really have to do some actual work in between postings. Thanks for your understanding on this matter................ http://www.jazzcornertalk.com/speakeasy/images/icons/icon12.gif

[Jimmy Cantiello]

I tasted a very interesting wine at the Beaulieu winery. It's called Beauzeaux (yes, pronounced bozo). In keeping with the emphasis on marketing and self-promotion that most of the wineries engage in, our tour guide described the wine as having a "big red nose that tastes like a three ring circus in your mouth" (please, spare me). Anyway, hype aside, I really liked what I tasted. Because of this, I went online went I got home to find out the blend of grapes used in this particular wine. I never even heard of a couple of the grape varieties. The breakdown of the blend is: 66% zinfandel, 11% lagrein, 10% charbono, 5% petite sirah, 4% primitivo, and 4% valdequie. The guide said that they produced 5,000 cases of Beauzeaux. I would definitely like to get a hold of a bottle to retaste it. Unfortunately I don't even know if it will be available outside of California. The only thing I remember about the brief taste I had was that it was dry and very pinot noirish in character. The particulars of Beauzeau are listed in the link below. We also got to taste the usual suspects, sauvignon blanc, merlot, cab, and a chardonnay.

The tour at Beaulieu was interesting but, as with most of these wineries, it seems as if they all say the same things. In other words, they point out what would be obvious and already known by most of the people reading this thread. I suppose they can't assume that everyone knows the basics such as breathing, how to properly taste a wine, what grape varieties go into a particular wine and so on. It was fun to see the operation nonetheless. More impressions later......................


Beauzeaux (http://www.bvwines.com/bvwines/en_US/bvwines/wineprofile/0,7772,15575955_15604988_0_16548568,00.html) http://www.msu.edu/~steeleph/Bozo.gif

[Jimmy Cantiello]

We also visited Sterling winery which is located a little off the main drag. It's a beautiful place set high up on a hill that can be reached by the road or a 3 1/2 minute cable car ride. When we reached the main building we were treated to stunning views of the vinyards below. The 'tour" was basically self-guided until you got to the tasting rooms. There we were treated to 4 flights of various wines including a very interesting muscat based dessert wine. Unfortunately, I don't recall the name and my work computer blocks me every time I click on wine so I can't retrieve the name. Sterling had beautiful tasting rooms one of which was set aside just to taste their reserve wines, at an additional cost, of course. They had a first rate operation and, as most of the wineries in the area, pay close attention to the quality of their wines.

I was hoping to ship a few bottles of wine home that are not distributed outside of California. It was at Sterling that we found out that we wouldn't be able to ship any wines home. Connecticut, being the high tax state that it is, will not allow wine to be shipped. They're afraid that they'll lose out on collecting the taxes.

[Dr Dave]

Regarding Beauzeaux: Interesting that they distinguish between zinfandel and primitivo; they are the same grape (In Italy it is more specifically known as Primitivo di Apulia). Also, valdequie is what gets sold as "gamay" in California. It has no relation to the gamay grape used to make beaujolais.

The presence of lagrein I find amazing; it's a grape from the Alto Adige in Northern Italy, used to make light reds. California never fails to surprise; I guess you can grow just about anything there.

And while we're at the grape trivia: Petite Sirah's original name was Durif; it was invented by a man of the same name, and its original attraction was its resistence to mildew. It has no relation whatever to syrah/shiraz. Nobody knows how the "Petite Sirah" handle came about. It grows well in places that are too hot for cabernet sauvignon.

Blending zin and petite sirah is actively promoted by Paul Draper at Ridge, who likes to give a dose of petite sirah to zinfandel. It adds tannic structure and makes the wine more likely to age well, he says. It doesn't sound like that's what the Beaulieu folks have in mind, though. The Wine Spectator gave it an 87; that's pretty good!

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Originally posted by Jimmy Cantiello
I was hoping to ship a few bottles of wine home that are not distributed outside of California. It was at Sterling that we found out that we wouldn't be able to ship any wines home. Connecticut, being the high tax state that it is, will not allow wine to be shipped. They're afraid that they'll lose out on collecting the taxes.

Jimmy!!! What the hell?? You mean to tell me that Sterling, a Californian winery is unaware of the federal law signed into effect in November of 2002 that specifically allows direct inter-state wine shipments as long as the point of sale is the winery?? That's just stupid on their part. This law was passed to prevent people from having to carry flammable liquids on passenger planes (which you could have done very easily... the airlines would have checked it in no problem... I brought back two cases on one occasion).

FYI, a story on the law is attached:
From www.wineinstitute.org

November 4, 2002

PRESIDENT SIGNS DEPARTMENT OF JUSTICE APPROPRIATIONS AUTHORIZATION ACT - LIMITED DIRECT WINE SHIPMENTS FOR WINERY VISITORS BECOMES LAW

WASHINGTON, D.C. - President George W. Bush signed the Department of Justice Appropriations Authorization Act on Saturday, which includes a provision allowing wine, purchased while visiting a winery, to be shipped to another state. Purchasers must be in accordance with state law in that they could carry the wine into the state to which the wine is shipped. (See list of states below.)

"We are pleased Congress has formally endorsed limited direct shipment of wine and the provision is now law," says Robert P. Koch, Senior Vice President of Wine Institute. "This is a practical and responsible solution which was crafted by the Congress to help winery visitors get their wine home."

Purchasers must be of legal age to buy wine. The shipment must require an adult signature upon delivery, and the wine must be for personal use only and not for resale. The provision is in effect during any period that the Federal Aviation Administration has restrictions on airline passengers to ensure safety. Congress adopted this common sense provision as a result of heightened airline security.

Wine Institute applauds Senator Patrick Leahy (D-VT) and Congressman Jim Sensenbrenner (R-WI), Chairmen of the Senate and House Judiciary Committees, as well as Senator Dianne Feinstein (D-CA) and Congressman Elton Gallegly (R-CA) for their efforts.

Wine Institute is the public policy association of 605 California wineries and affiliated businesses responsible for over 80 percent of the nation's wine production and 93 percent of exports.

(continued...)

IMPACT OF DEPARTMENT OF JUSTICE APPROPRIATIONS
AUTHORIZATION ACT ON CALIFORNIA WINERIES

The following is a summary of state direct shipping laws after President Bush signed into law the Department of Justice Appropriations Authorization Act on November 2, 2002. These changes apply only when an out-of-state customer is present in person at the winery at the time of purchase:

STATES THAT WILL CHANGE BECAUSE OF THE NEW LAW:
CONNECTICUT - allows for up to 4 gallons
DELAWARE - allows up to 1 liter (federal limit)
FLORIDA - allows up to 1 gallon
INDIANA - allows up to 1 quart
MAINE - allows up to 1 gallon
MASSACHUSETTS - allows up to 3 gallons
MICHIGAN - allows up to 312 oz.
MONTANA - allows up to 3 gallons on your person (this would be different from
amounts allowed to a consumer who has a connoisseur's permit)
NEW JERSEY - allows up to 1 gallon
NORTH CAROLINA - up to 50 liters
OKLAHOMA - allows up to 1 liter
SOUTH CAROLINA - allows up to 1 gallon
SOUTH DAKOTA - allows up to 1 gallon
TENNESSEE - allows up to 1 gallon
TEXAS - allows up to 3 gallons
VERMONT - allows up to 6 gallons
VIRGINIA - allows up to 1 gallon

States that already allow direct shipments under reciprocal or limited direct shipment laws (these states will not be changed):
Arizona - (current law allows one case - consumer, not winery, must make shipment)
Alaska (limited direct state - already allows for "a reasonable amount")
California (reciprocal state)
Colorado (reciprocal state)
District of Columbia (no change - already allows up to 1 gallon)
Georgia (limited direct state - 5 cases when on site)
Hawaii (reciprocal state)
Idaho (reciprocal state)
Iowa (reciprocal state)
Illinois (reciprocal state)
Louisiana (limited direct state - permit required)
Minnesota (reciprocal state)
Missouri (reciprocal state)
Nebraska (limited direct state - permit required)
New Hampshire (limited direct state - permit required)
New Mexico (reciprocal state)
Nevada (limited direct state - permit required)
Oregon (reciprocal state)
Rhode Island (limited direct from on-premise already allowed)
Washington (reciprocal state)
Wisconsin (reciprocal state)
West Virginia (reciprocal state)
Wyoming (limited direct state - permit required

States that will continue to prohibit direct shipments are shown in italics:
Alabama (no change - requires advance approval from ABC board)
Arkansas (no change - requires advance payment of excise taxes)
Kansas (no change - only allows carry-on from outside of US)
Kentucky (keeps onsite sale provision of old law, but no shippers carry due to felony in
dry areas of the state.)
Maryland (no change - delivery of alcohol to private individuals via common carrier is
specifically prohibited by other statutes.)
Mississippi (no change - all personal transport prohibited)
Pennsylvania (no change - only permits when returning from outside of U.S.)
North Dakota (no change - only allows for special circumstances where taxes are
prepaid)
New York (no change - all personal transport prohibited)
Ohio (no change - requires pre-approval by ABC and payment of taxes in advance and
only for those wines not already available in Ohio.)
Utah (no change - only permits when returning from outside of U.S.)

Later,
Kevin

[hornplayer]

"Blending zin and petite sirah is actively promoted by Paul Draper at Ridge, who likes to give a dose of petite sirah to zinfandel. It adds tannic structure and makes the wine more likely to age well, he says. It doesn't sound like that's what the Beaulieu folks have in mind, though."

I find it incredible that that combo could be construed as "Pinot Noirish," tho! Zin's flavor profile is so very different from Pinot Noir.

[hornplayer]

"Jimmy!!! What the hell?? You mean to tell me that Sterling, a Californian winery is unaware of the federal law signed into effect in January that specifically allows direct inter-state wine shipments as long as the point of sale is the winery?? That's just stupid on their part. This law was passed to prevent people from having to carry flammable liquids on passenger planes (which you could have done very easily... the airlines would have checked it in no problem... I brought back two cases on one occasion)."

Even so, when I was there in December, I bought the wine, St/Supery gave me a carton with a styrofoam liner (like THEY use for shipment) and tape. We packed up our wine and shipped the box blind to ourselves from a Mailboxes, Etc.

[Dr Dave]

June: The lagrein and charbono might lighten it up a little; I'm just guessing, though.

Kevin: This is the first I've learned of the law. Excellent news! Might make me vote for Boy George after all. (Not!)

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Kevin, Thanks for the info on shipping wine. It sure does look like Sterling (and a couple of the other wineries) dropped the ball on that very important issue. When we questioned the woman conducting the tasting she pulled out a list of states that prohibit shipments and pointed out Connecticut. Maybe they forgot to toss that list away.

June, I may have erred in describing the small taste of Beauzeaux as "pinot nourish". That description may or may not be accurate depending on my possibly faulty memory (remember, I tasted many wines that day), or the fact that the blending of so many grapes completely skewed the taste profile even though the biggest percentage of grapes in the blend are zinfandel. This wine, as I remember, was much softer and less tannic than any zin that I've ever tasted....................

[Dr Dave]

You gotta take notes , Jimmy! We don't care about you having a good time in wine country! We want data ! (It's all about us...you know that, don't you?)

[Jimmy Cantiello]

I gotcher notes right here! Hey, I was on vacation not away at college.

Did I tell you about my visit to The French Laundry in Yountville? Ah, I'll save that for another time.......................

[Dr Dave]

The French Laundry? You bastard! Tell us!

[BFrank]

I'm sure that I'm a minority of one, but I went to the French Laundry for lunch once and was disappointed.

It seemed like much ado about......well, not much - literally. For about $100/per person we had about 5 courses. All of which were so tiny that you really had to concentrate to try to appreciate them. They "looked" great - sculpted and piled up on oversized plates - but after I left there with an empty wallet (and not such a full stomach), I had to think to myself......was it worth it? I think not.

[hornplayer]

Originally posted by BFrank
I'm sure that I'm a minority of one, but I went to the French Laundry for lunch once and was disappointed.

It seemed like much ado about......well, not much - literally. For about $100/per person we had about 5 courses. All of which were so tiny that you really had to concentrate to try to appreciate them. They "looked" great - sculpted and piled up on oversized plates - but after I left there with an empty wallet (and not such a full stomach), I had to think to myself......was it worth it? I think not.

I had a similar experience at Charlie Trotter. It's something I don't plan to repeat anywhere again -- unless someone else insists I go, AND pays the very stiff freight.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Okay, I'll tell you about my visit to The French Laundry. Now remember, I said I visited the place, I didn't actually eat there. No. but seriously folks, a funny thing happened that made us all laugh.

If I had my way I would have made it my mission to secure a dinner reservation at Thomas Keller's temple of haute cuisine but the other couple we were traveling with are not the type of people that would go for that type of thing so I hesitated to obligate them into forking over big bucks for something they wouldn't really care for.

I can totally understand BFrank's and HP's criticisms of The French Laundry. I've seen Thomas Keller in action a few times on tv and can vouch for their descriptions of his miniscule portions. I believe the normal tasting menu at the restaurant consisits of nine courses. Remember nouvelle cuisine? That's what his style reminds me of, beautifully presented dishes, created with imagination with the freshest ingredients, served in tasting size portions which leaves one wanting to stop by a local rib joint on the way home. Having said that, if I could have pulled it off I would have been there in a heartbeat just so I could see for myself.

Anyway, since I knew that I would not, in fact, be dining at The French Laundry anytime soon, my traveling companions indulged me while I pulled off Route 29 in Yountville onto Washington St. to at least gaze upon that legendary bastion of flavors that foodies everywhere have raised to icon status. As I drove down Washington street looking from side to side in order to spot the restaurant's sign I noticed that it was a mostly residential neighborhood. My wife suggested that I ask a young man walking his dog. I stopped the car in front of an unassuming ivy covered building and shouted across the street to ask him if he knows where The French Laundry restaurant is. "Right there", he said. As he pointed about ten feet behind where I had parked the car. If we were any closer we would have been eating lunch inside. We had a good laugh about it. That young guy must have thought we were idiots.

Of course, I made my wife take a photo of me standing right behind the restaurant's sign which is on a stone wall on the side of the building. There I am, looking dejected, at the restaurant where I never ate but can always say I "visited". Hey, I got proof!................

Here's a photo from the Web

http://www.sterba.net/yountville/frenchlaundry/pic/front.jpg

[Kevin Bresnahan]

Originally posted by hornplayer
I had a similar experience at Charlie Trotter. It's something I don't plan to repeat anywhere again -- unless someone else insists I go, AND pays the very stiff freight.

Wow! I thought maybe it was just me. I left Charlie Trotter's after the 12 course meal and thought about going to BK for a Whopper.:)

Later,
Kevin

[hermann]

Tokajer Aszu
http://www.hudribusch.net/images/oremuswappen.jpg

I have a sixpack of 1976, but my wife has forbidden to drink it now , this can only happen on childrens marriages, therefore at time mostly I take some Bordeaux.

[BFrank]

Whew! I was thinking it was just me. No one EVER says anything negative about the French Laundry. I feel better now.

I guess that I could have said that I left there feeling like I had been taken to the cleaners............but I won't.

[hornplayer]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jimmy Cantiello
[B]Of course I made my wife take a photo of me standing right behind the restaurant's sign which is on a stone wall on the side of the building. There I am, looking dejected, at the restaurant where I never ate but can always say I "visited". Hey, I got proof!................

Well, YOU found the SIGN!! We drove back and forth and never found a "French Laundry" sign, just a small "Relais & Chateaux" that let us know that must be the place. Our hotel was walking distance from the place, but we really had no desire to spend that kind of money for 9 hors d'oeuvre (I probably should say amuse-bouche. Hors d's are bigger.). We did have a magnificent lunch nearby at Bistro Jeanty, for a very reasonable $$.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

Once I load our digital photos into our home computer I'll have to post that photo of me and the sign. I did manage to get a reservation at the restaurant that I planned to go to all along, Tra Vigne in St. Helena. I was very fortunate to get a reservation with only two days notice. It was originally opened by Michael Chiarello who is no longer affiliated with the restaurant. He now heads a company called Michael Chiarello's Napa Style. There's an outlet store in St. Helena. Aside from June Jacobs, he's one of my favorite chefs in the whole world. I try to catch his show on Saturdays which airs on PBS. Maybe I can tell you a little about the restaurant at another time, with Dr. Dave's permission, of course.................. http://www.jazzcornertalk.com/speakeasy/images/icons/icon12.gif

[Dr Dave]

Permission? Dude?


Wine of the week: 2002 Feudi San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino. From the Campania area in Southern Italy. Intense floral scent, heavyweight, (creamy, not oily), snappy citrus and mineral flavors on the palate. I asked for the 2000 (ecstatically reviewed by Jancis Robinson) and was told "the younger the better." The waiter proceeded to prove his point by opening a 2001 and a 2002 and letting me pick. I went for the younger one. (This was at Taranta, a pretty good Southern Italian place on Hanover St. in Boston's North End. Not the usual red sauce--a specialty of the house was Spaghetti with sea urchin and bottarga di muggine, agliolio e peperoncino.) Anyway, you should be able to find it for less than $20, and well worth it.

[hornplayer]

Originally posted by Dr Dave
Wine of the week: 2002 Feudi San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino. From the Campania area in Southern Italy. Intense floral scent, heavyweight, (creamy, not oily), snappy citrus and mineral flavors on the palate. I asked for the 2000 (ecstatically reviewed by Jancis Robinson) and was told "the younger the better." The waiter proceeded to prove his point by opening a 2001 and a 2002 and letting me pick. I went for the younger one. (This was at Taranta, a pretty good Southern Italian place on Hanover St. in Boston's North End. Not the usual red sauce--a specialty of the house was Spaghetti with sea urchin and bottarga di muggine, agliolio e peperoncino.) Anyway, you should be able to find it for less than $20, and well worth it.

That wine has been a favorite of mine for some time... was introduced to it by Jeff Cirace from the store of the same name in the North End.

And do you recommend the restaurant, Dr. Dave? sounds interesting.

[Dr Dave]

Taranta is very good; not great. The service is charming, some of the dishes--like the abovementioned sea urchin pasta and the razor-clam pasta--are unusual. The mussels with marsala and pancetta were terrific. But the antipasti (much touted in the local press) was nothing special and the tuna steak was ordinary. Click here (http://www.tarantarist.com/winter_menu.html) to see the menu.

[Jimmy Cantiello]

We had a memorable dining experience while visiting Napa Valley. As I said earlier, I chose a place called Tra Vigne because it was originally opened by Michael Chiarello. He's no longer affiliated with the restaurant but I was hoping that the current owners are carrying on his particular style of cooking, which includes using the freshest local ingredients, treating them simply, and presenting them with imagination and professional service. Of course, those elements are a part of any good restaurant.

Well, I was not disappointed. The meal was excellent from start to finish. For my part, I decided to go with an appetizer that the menu named "The Salumeria' which consisted of various cold meats and olives including "rabbit proscuitto". I should have ordered two, not because of the size but because it was so good. My dining companions were happy with their salads. I'm happy for them. For the main course I chose lamb which was prepared two ways. Several slices of rare lamb from a rack as well as a lamb and broccoli rabe/pignoli stuffed canneloni. The lamb stuffed into the canneloni was a little more well done which worked very well. It had a very intense flavor. My brother-in-law got a whole grilled bass for his main. He was moaning while he was eating. Joanne got braised rabbit with a side order of asparagus. We were shocked to see the size of the asparagus(HUGE). I thought they would be very "woody" and tough. Not so, they were some of the best asparagus I've ever tasted, and a huge portion as well, enough for the whole table. I'll be god damned if I can remember what my sis-in-law got for an entree. I think she played it safe with a steak. For wine we went with Tra Vigne's house label which was very good for the price. It was a cab that they have bottled for them. Nothing spectacular but very good. There was one glitch, though. My lamb was way over salted. It almost ruined the dish. The other courses made up for it. I did mention it to our server. She apologized and said she would inform the back room. I was hoping for a free drink. No dice, oh well.

The restaurant itself is beautiful and comfortable. If there weren't so many good places to eat in the Napa Valley, I would love to go back as soon as possible but there are other mountains to climb. Hey, if you don't have anything better to do you can check out Tra Vigne's Web-site for yourself to see how nice the joint is. They have a few photos to give you a nice flavor. I've conveniently posted the URL below. Salud!..............

TRA VIGNE (http://www.travignerestaurant.com/)

[Dr Dave]

On my first visit to Tra Vigne, back in '87, musta been, they had Penne al Coniglio. Glad to see a variation is still on the menu!

[Dr Dave]

Something odd: I heard a remark back in April that about half the Champagne crop has been lost due to extended cold weather and killing frosts. I expected to see news about it somewhere, and nearly forgot about it. When I remembered the other day, I went searching the web for a news release; I finally found one, but the event seems to have received very little coverage outside Champagne itself.

So there isn't going to be much new wine available for anybody's 2003 cuveé. What will the big Champagne houses do? Will they draw down their reserve wine stocks? Will there be fewer bottles available next year? Will--heaven forbid--quality suffer? I do feel pretty confident that nobody is going to declare a vintage!

I suppose it could be a difficult season for the growers who make their own Champagne, since they typically don't have big reserves to draw upon. What they make is called "recoltant-manipulant" Champagne. Almost all of what you see in the U.S. is "negociant-manipulant" wine, made by houses that rely on bought-in grapes. Look for the smallest print on the Champagne label, and you'll see "NM" followed by some numbers. Sometimes you'll see "CM" which means the wine is made and marketed by a farmer's cooperative. Nicolas Feuillatte is an example. If you ever see an "RM" champagne--especially if it's from Rene Geoffrey or Gaston Chiquet or Chartogne-Taillet, grab it! They cost no more and they're usually of very high quality.

[hornplayer]

Originally posted by Dr Dave
Something odd: I heard a remark back in April that about half the Champagne crop has been lost due to extended cold weather and killing frosts. I expected to see news about it somewhere, and nearly forgot about it. When I remembered the other day, I went searching the web for a news release; I finally found one, but the event seems to have received very little coverage outside Champagne itself.

So there isn't going to be much new wine available for anybody's 2003 cuveé. What will the big Champagne houses do? Will they draw down their reserve wine stocks? Will there be fewer bottles available next year? Will--heaven forbid--quality suffer? I do feel pretty confident that nobody is going to declare a vintage!

I read something about that too, Dave...

Maybe this is a good year to try some of the yummy sparklings that come out of California. Iron Horse will be on my tour this fall, and Schramsberg, Domaine Chandon, Domaine Carneros, also all make very enjoyable wines, imo.

[Dr Dave]

Roederer for me! Anderson Valley L'Ermitage is a mind-blower. Needs at least two years in the cellar, though. I defy anyone to pick this out as a Californian in a blind tasting; stands right up there with top French wines.

[hornplayer]

omigosh! How did I forget the Roederer Anderson Valley???

It's yummy!

[Jimmy Cantiello]

This is about as close as I came to eating at The French Laundry. Notice the forlorn look on my face................

[John L]

I ate once at the French Laundry a while back. Actually, I was rather disappointed. Certainly, everything tasted good, but it seemed to lack the flare of a genuinely brilliant chef.

Chez Pannise in Berkeley is another matter. Alice Waters is a miracle worker. Even when she has one-time guest chefs in from obscure places. the food almost always turns out to be incredible.

[hornplayer]

Interesting observation, John. Tho I've not dined there, I have eaten at some of the USA's most touted tables. It's interesting to me that in so many cases here, even tho the food is very good, there is some sort of "je ne sais quoi" missing that is always present at the top restaurants of France and Italy.... and even in many of the bistros and trattorie.

[walto]

Hey, I wanted to ask you ladies and gents in the know--I noticed Doc dumped on Hess Select Chardonnay in another thread. I've been enjoying that stuff the past couple weeks. Seems a little less grassy than the Macon Lugny/Macon Davaye/other $10-a-bottle French stuff I usually swill during the summer. But I really have no idea about any of this stuff. Is the Hess actually....garbage?

[Dr Dave]

No, Hess Select isn't garbage. There are a lot worse ways to spend your money on California Chardonnay. Kendall Jackson Vintner's Reserve comes to mind, as do its two uptown brand-mates, La Crema and Cambria. And God Forbid you should blow $40+ on Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch. If you want a really nice unoaked French chard, try La Roche Vineuse from Merlin; should be about $13; also try their Vielles Vignes for a few dollars more. Or go wild on their Terrasse Vergisson, a great single-vineyard chard for $24. Oliver and Corrine Merlin have been making wine in Macon for about 13 years, and they're very good.

Back in California, try Solex ($16); DeLoach ($15); Belvedere ($13); and, if you can find it, Esser ($10). Also St. Supery '99 Chard, unoaked, about $18; and, perhaps the best value in the lot, Meridian's new Edna Valley Reserve chard, unoaked, $14.