The Wine Thread

Kevin Bresnahan · March-21st-2003, 08:51 AM

Well, this is one thread from the old place that I ain't going to let die!

Yesterday, Dr Dave mentioned that Fetzer's Barrel Select is up to $25. I find that amazing. Just a couple of years back I was able to buy that stuff for around $10. I guess the word's out that it's good stuff. Hmm... I had fogotten about this wine, too. Maybe I'll have to pick some up. 25 bucks though??

Yesteday, my brother called me and asked me to find a wine for him. He was given a bottle and loved it. It was a 1999 Cuvaison Cabernet Sauvignon. I called around and found out it's a bit pricey. The 1998 was $35.99 at Messina's. Sam called around. No 1999. Why? Because the idiot who reps them bought 28 CASES of the 1998! What a marooon. No way I'd buy any 1998s with the excellent 99s out there.

Later,
Kevin

Dr Dave · March-21st-2003, 09:08 AM

Being in essence a lazy sort, but also full of undeserved self-regard, I begin anew by re-posting my last entry on the old board:

A few short recent notes:

'00 Grand Archer Arrowwood Merlot: ruby, slight orange rim, lacks brightness; probably unfiltered. Not very generous with the fruit; slightly bitter finish. No thanks.

'01 Benziger Fume Blanc: I wish California winemakers would stop treating Sauvignon Blanc as though it were a poor relation of chardonnay--a cheap grape to be tarted up with toasty oak. An inexpensive alternative to a typical California chard, with little of the SB characteristic grassiness or freshness. I guess I don't understand why somebody would make a wine with a particular varietal and then go to such lengths to disguise the varietal's characteristics. An SB for people who don't like SB.

'99 Fetzer Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon: Garnet-to-ruby color, pink rim of a young wine. Typical blackcurrant and dark red berry fruits on the nose, plus oak-derived vanilla. A bit alcoholic (13.5%). My boss at Leary's expressed reservations about selling a premium wine with the Fetzer brand. I thought it easily justified its $25/bottle retail price. You could do a lot worse for twice as much money.

Here's the best one yet!

'97 Chateau Pegasus Naoussa "Appellation of Origin of High Quality." Greece
Appearance: Orange, rim, garnet center, but kind of brownish overall. Throwing a deposit. Prematurely aged?
Nose: Horse saddle. Stinky! It says "ecological" on the label, and maybe they didn't use any sulfites, because there is clearly a bacterial problem here.
Palate: Leather. Old Slavonian Oak. Very tannic. I don't know what grape was involved in the making of this wine, but it has been seriously abused. Sale price is $15. Better you should spend the money on lottery tickets.

Jimmy Cantiello · March-21st-2003, 04:56 PM

Hey, we have to keep this thread going................

Dr Dave · March-21st-2003, 08:46 PM

Note in Jimmy's photo that the vines run down the hill, not horizontally. This indicates a relatively recent planting, also that soil erosion is not an issue. Note also that there is all this green stuff growing between the vines, indicative of a relatively wet climate. The vines are trained along wires, but I can't see from this image exactly how. With no other information, I'd guess this was West Coast USA. For a wilder guess, I'd say maybe Carneros, although the hillside looks maybe a little too steep.

Jimmy Cantiello · March-22nd-2003, 07:04 AM

Dave, here's the caption to the above photo:

"Steeply planted Cabernet Franc vines at Viader Vineyards, looking down onto the reservoir."

The vineyard is located in Dear Park, California on Howell Mountain...............

Dr Dave · March-22nd-2003, 11:04 AM

Well, I got the county right, anyway. Did you by any chance meet Randy Dunn, the original Howell mountain man?

PS: Kevin, don't diss the '98s so quickly! In recent blind tastings conducted by Horizon (a distributor) in Boston, some '98s have kicked butt. It wasn't the greatest year, but it hardly deserves its current reputation as a dog.

Jimmy Cantiello · March-22nd-2003, 11:10 AM

Nope, never met Randy Dunn...............

Mingus · March-23rd-2003, 11:03 AM

with my annual marathon session of tax preparations behind me, and the prospects of new clients on the horizon, we decided to treat ourselves to a feast of red meat and cabernet.

perusing the shelves containing only the best supermarket wines this region has to offer, I came close to choosing a 1999 Sequoia Grove (on sale, 23.99). having never experienced the great Sequoia, and seeking some assurances for a great meal, I instead chose an old friend from Clos du Val.

back in the mid '80s, when I first ventured into the world of wine, I was stunned by the 1982 Clos du Val cabernet (merlot/franc) blend.

Last night, we uncorked the 1998 ($27.99). While inoffensive by any stretch, I was somewhat disappointed by the lack of structure this blend had to offer. Mild attack, decent body, small finish. Overall, an ok cab, but nothing to write home about.

Has anyone taken a look at the Sequoia? (The non-sale price was listed at 32.99)

Also, never being one to succumb to the kendall jackson zealotry, I noticed on the shelf that in addition to their standard line and "vinter's reserve", they had what was labeled "Grand Reserve" (34.99). Has anyone ventured down that path?

p.s. thanks for keeping this thread going. I enjoy reading all your posts.

Dr Dave · March-23rd-2003, 12:26 PM

I've never tried the Sequoia, but Roger Orman, a wine guru friend, thinks quite highly of it. Regarding your Clos du Val experience, I can say only that I've had it too, with any number of california Cabs, and I don't know how much of it is change in winemaking styles and how much is my own palate having become more experienced since the last time I tried the wine. Or how much was just my memory heightening a first-time romance, you know? ;-)

Recent California/Oregon/Washington wine notes:

2000 McIlroy Cellars Russian River Valley Aquarius Ranch Chardonnay. Appearance: Pale gold, slight green tint. Nose: Pear, hint of green apple, soft spice. Malolactic fermentation may have been held back or held back partially, hence the apple. Very fresh. Palate: Ripe apple and soft citrus. Very nice! $21.99, 968 cases made.

2000 Terre Rouge Shendandoah Valley Viognier. Appearance: Not starbright; has had some time on the lees. Unfiltered? Pale green-gold color. Nose: Honeysuckle, gardenia, soft spice. Palate: Honey spice around the edge of the tongue, peach, apricot, a bit of bitter almond. Nicely restrained for a viognier, not to perfumey. 14.5% alcohol, but not hot--well-integrated. No price information.

2000 Cristom Reserve Willamette Valley (Salem, Oregon) Pinot Noir. Appearance: Clear-pink rim; translucent garnet center. Nose: Fresh raspberry, slight strawberry, a bit of candied fruit, tea box. Palate: Cherry, blackberry, slight bitter tannin, flash of hot alcohol at the back of the throat. 13.5% alcohol. $38.99

2000 L'Ecole No. 41 Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley. 81% merlot, 16% cabernet sauvignon, 3% cabernet franc. Appearance: Pale pink narrow rim, bright garnet center. Nose: Floral, plum, blackcurrant, bit of green pepper, fleshy. Palate: Dark fruit, leather; long, soft tannic finish. $42.99. Even though the CS is only 16%, I think it dominates the wine. The green pepper note, I'm guessing, is from the cab franc. It's a nice Bordeaux style, but personally I'd rather buy a real Bordeax for the same money.

2000 Tamarack Cellars Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Appearance: Pink-to-pale orange rim; dark garnet center. Nose: Black raspberry, dark red fruit. Palate: Blackberry, medium tannins, bit of oaky vanilla. $28.99. At this price, I want more character.

hornplayer · March-24th-2003, 11:43 AM

Mingus: re your experience, I can only say that in general, I've found '98 Cabs from Napa disappointing. '98 was the clunker year of the past decade.

Try a 99 or 97 (if you can find it) and then evaluate.

HEY GUYS!!! I'm back from the Foodwriters Symposium to find the NEW (and perhaps) improved Jazz Corner!

Got to get my sea legs now!

I will have a very impressive list of riches I had the privilege of sampling last week at the Symposium. The Napa Valley Vintners were VERY generous. There were so many great wines I didn't get very much of any one... wanting to sample them all. I may not have much time until the weekend, but I promise to post it!!!

GoodSpeak · March-24th-2003, 11:07 PM

They HAVE, Dave.

You haven't been reading my desperate attempts at correcting this myth.

To wit:

Callaway
Castoro Cellars
Firestone
Jepson
Kenwood
Buena Vista
Groth
Pine Ridge
Temecula
Kendall-Jackson
Churchill-Claibourne
Cottonwood Creek
Arciero

I could go ON...

Valerie · March-24th-2003, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dr Dave
I've never tried the Sequoia, but Roger Orman, a wine guru friend, thinks quite highly of it.

Dave: Is Roger Orman the guy who was a very ahead-of-his-time Calif. wine distributor in the '70s?

Dr Dave · March-24th-2003, 11:35 PM

Valerie: No! Roger's been a Boston guy since forever. Well, since he got into the business in the early '60s.

Goodie: Never mind. Whenever I need a misunderstanding that would take many paragraphs to disentangle, I can always count on you. If you're trying to tell me that Kendall Jackson Chard is a better product than it used to be, forget it. It was jive then, it's jive now.

hornplayer · March-27th-2003, 12:20 AM

This thread needs to be brought to the top, and tho my big list of FAB Napa Valley wines is not yet ready for posting, I thought I'd wax a bit poetic about my favorite Cali Chard..... Sonoma Cutrer Russian River Ranches... as I sit her sipping a glass. the saddest part is that it seems more oaky than I remember.

any comments from Cali Chard fans?

Mingus · March-27th-2003, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by hornplayer

any comments from Cali Chard fans?

No. But the 2000 Rosenblum Viognier is exceptional! ($13)

GoodSpeak · March-27th-2003, 03:37 PM

Dr. Dave,

I was referring to your comment about all California Savi's being treated like a poorman's Chard.

My response, I think, did reflect that.

MRS · March-27th-2003, 03:45 PM

Can anyone direct me to where I can find Qupe Whitehawk Vineyard (forget the vintage)?

I had it at Bacar in SF a few months back and even missed an opportunity in St. Louis to go to a tasting hosted by Bob Lindquist. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks!

Michael

GoodSpeak · March-27th-2003, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mingus
No. But the 2000 Rosenblum Viognier is exceptional! ($13)

Castoro Vineyards in Paso Robles, CA vints a fine Viognier...FWIW.

Dr Dave · April-3rd-2003, 10:36 PM

And now for something completely different:

http://www.tcsn.net/rags/bum/

Enjoy!

(Back with more boring wine notes tomorrow)

GoodSpeak · April-3rd-2003, 11:11 PM

LOL

Here's another "recommendation":

A Guide to Australian Table Wines

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A lot of people in this country pooh-pooh Australian table wines. This is a pity, as many fine Australian wines appeal not only to the Australian palette, but also to the cognoscenti of Great Britain.

"Black Stump Bordeaux" is rightly praised as a peppermint flavoured Burgundy, whilst a good "Sydney Syrup" can rank with any of the world's best sugary wines.

"Chateau Bleu", too, has won many prizes; not least for its taste, and its lingering afterburn.

"Old Smokey, 1968" has been compared favourably to a Welsh claret, whilst the Australian wino society thouroughly recommends a 1970 "Coq du Rod Laver", which, believe me, has a kick on it like a mule: 8 bottles of this, and you're really finished -- at the opening of the Sydney Bridge Club, they were fishing them out of the main sewers every half an hour.

Of the sparkling wines, the most famous is "Perth Pink". This is a bottle with a message in, and the message is BEWARE!. This is not a wine for drinking -- this is a wine for laying down and avoiding.

Another good fighting wine is "Melbourne Old-and-Yellow", which is particularly heavy, and should be used only for hand-to-hand combat.

Quite the reverse is true of "Chateau Chunder", which is an Appelachian controle, specially grown for those keen on regurgitation -- a fine wine which really opens up the sluices at both ends.

Real emetic fans will also go for a "Hobart Muddy", and a prize winning "Cuiver Reserve Chateau Bottled Nuit San Wogga Wogga", which has a bouquet like an aborigine's armpit.

[My apologies to Monty Python's Flying Circus]

Dr Dave · April-4th-2003, 12:01 AM

Oooh, not all Monty Python gags age well. Although the Aussies still have some pretty funny names, like The Dead Arm, Mad Fish, etc. Thing is, whatever you call them, they're all pretty damned good. Let me tell you, when people come into the store asking for an under-ten-dollar cab or chard, I steer 'em straight for the Penfolds and Lindeman's. Good wines at great prices. Actually, here's a question for you, Goodie (all others chime in, too): Is there a California Cab or Chard under ten bucks that you are still enthusiastic about?

Mingus · April-4th-2003, 07:25 AM

"enthusiastic" may be an overstatement, but when pressed, I'd have to put Clos du Bois and the "infamous" Groth cabs in the same category as your aforementioned "from-under" wines.

p.s. Loved the Rags/Bum link and Python routine. Laughed my ass off!

Douglas · April-4th-2003, 07:33 AM

Dr. Dave,

Not disputing your claim about the Australians, just an anecdote from a Financial Times wine critic many years ago.

The journalist was travelling with a French winemaker in Australia and stopped at a winery for a tasting. The wine was not good. After being told the wine was made from the vines on the opposite side of the road from the winery, the Frenchman said "It is a pity your wine does not travel."

Dr Dave · April-4th-2003, 08:57 AM

"Infamous" Groth cabs? Tell me more...

Here in Massachusetts, Clos du Bois has passed through the ten buck ceiling. As has J. Lohr Seven Oaks. Although J. Lohr has the Cypress label now for the under-ten market. Haven't actually tried it yet.

hornplayer · April-4th-2003, 01:35 PM

Mingus: which "infamous" Groth cabs are UNDER $10??? Inquiring minds DEFINITELY want to know!

GoodSpeak · April-4th-2003, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dr Dave
Actually, here's a question for you, Goodie (all others chime in, too): Is there a California Cab or Chard under ten bucks that you are still enthusiastic about?

That's a tough one...not much out there these days.

I don't drink Chardonnay anymore, so for Cabernet Sauvignons I would probably go with Clos du Bois, Meridian, Santa Rita [Chile] or Lindemans [Shiraz].

Mingus · April-4th-2003, 07:51 PM

Did I say cab? hahaha I meant savignon blanc! Decent sb, mild frizante (sp?), doesn't try to be too much like a chard...

As for Clos du Bois, we still find it regularly on sale for $8.99 (reg $10.99)

Don't mean to diss Penefold, but I put them in the same sphere.

GoodSpeak · April-5th-2003, 08:31 PM

Clos du Bois is a fine Savi...they vint several [some do lean toward that dreaded Chard, uh, well...crap] Others I have already mentioned on an earlier post; Callaway, Castoro and Jepson being the most notably typical Sauvi's/Fume Blancs.

Give me a grassy nose with a dry, drier, driest finish OR...give me a Cabernet Franc.

Jimmy Cantiello · April-5th-2003, 09:04 PM

My daughter is always sending me corny e-mails. She knows her dad is a wine drinker so her most recent e-mail gave me a chuckle.

Philosophy of Wine

A philosophy professor stood before his class and had some items in front of him. When the class began, wordlessly he picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with rocks, about 2" in diameter. He then asked the students if the jar was full.

They agreed that it was.

So the professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured them into the jar. He shook the jar lightly. The pebbles, of course, rolled into the open areas between the rocks. He then asked the students again if the jar was full.

They agreed it was.

The professor picked up a box of sand and poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else. He then asked once more if the jar was full.

The students responded with an unanimous -- yes.

The professor then produced a bottle of red wine from under the table and proceeded to pour the entire contents into the jar effectively filling the empty space between the sand.

The students laughed.

"Now," said the professor, as the laughter subsided, "I want you to
recognize that this jar represents your life. The rocks are the important things -- your family, your partner, your health, your children -- things that if everything else was lost and only they remained, your life would still be full.

"The pebbles are the other things that matter like your job, your house, your car. The sand is everything else -- the small stuff.

"If you put the sand into the jar first," he continued "there is no room for the pebbles or the rocks. The same goes for your life. If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff, you will never have room for the things that are important to you. Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness. Play with your children. Take time to get medical checkups. Take your partner out dancing. There will always be time to go to work, clean the house, give a dinner party and fix the disposal.

"Take care of the rocks first -- the things that really matter. Set your priorities. The rest is just sand."

One of the students raised her hand and inquired what the wine represented.

The professor smiled. "I'm glad you asked. It just goes to show you that no matter how full your life may seem, there's always room for a good bottle of wine."

My daughter knows me better than I thought...............

Dr Dave · April-5th-2003, 09:27 PM

Beautiful, Jimmy!

Wine notes from a tasting dinner where there was no light, so no appearance notes:

2001 Lamura Nero d'Avola (Sicily): Black raspberry, oak, grapey, oily. Sweet fruit on the palate, fruit finish. $7.99

2000 Heron Merlot (St. Chinian): Nose--red berry, vanilla oak, chocolate. More fruit on the palate, good acidity, no tannins to speak of. Dry, spicy finish. $8.99

2001 Heron Chardonnay North Coast California: Nose--green apple, hint of citrus. No induced malolactic fermentation. Green apple finish, mild oak. Surprisingly good. $11.99

2000 Etim, Tarragona, Spain. 85% garnacha, 15% cabernet sauvignon. Unfiltered. Spicy, meaty, dark fruit, cooked strawberry. $12.99

2001 Tres Santos, Toro, Spain. 100% Tinta Del Toro. Fresh cherry nose, minty herbal oak. Flatter palate, a big soft. Vigorous tannins, though. $14.99

1999 Partal Crianza, Bullas, Spain. 60% Monastroll; 40% tempranillo, cabernet, merlot, syrah. Dark fruit, A-1 Steak Sauce, caramel/burnt sugar, sweek cooked tomato. Gutsy, long lasting. $24.99

2000 Abel Mendoza Seleccion Personnel, Rioja, 100% Tempranillo. Delicate plum nose, touch of vanilla. Palate: Red fruit, long soft finish. A bit of warming alcohol at the end. $29.99

1999 Allende Crianza Rioja, 100% Tempranillo. Roasted meat, deep plum, hint of vanilla oak, mint. On the palate, big cherry, soft tannins. Sweet, juicy, soft, California-like. Compare to Rosenblum Vintners Cuvee XXIV Zinfandel, with more elegance. $17.99

2000 Calvario Rioja, 90% Tempranillo, 8% Garnacha, 2% Graciano. Black cherry nose with a lot of oak, impression of deep flavor. On the palate, more fruit, hints of chocolate, seamless flavors. Surprisingly light in the mouth. $59.99

And now for something completely different:

2001 Dr. M. Prum Riesling, QBA, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. On the nose, a cornucopia of ripe apples. On the palate, crackling lemon, grapefruit rind. A little sulphur. Jumping with life! $14.99